Drivetrain disconnects

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#11

02-01-2007, 01:27 PM

GaryG

Join Date: May 2005

Location: Jupiter, FL

Posts: 2,468

Re: Drivetrain disconnects

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeeSter

There were reports from some people that in city driving "L" can get you better mileage. That doesn't contradict your results at all however. For one thing your results are when maintaining speed not stop/go.

I suspect the better mileage has to do mainly with the fact that the ICE shuts down quicker upon deceleration in "L". If one uses the "double-tap" while in "D" to get the ICE to shut down immediately and brakes gently enough that they get full advantage of re-gen... I would guess that the "L" advantage in city driving is largely gone.

One point I should have made also regarding "L" Gear driving is about speed. During my test in "L", I found the faster you go in "L", there was a decrease in regen and less of a decrease in MPG relative to "D" driving. The only thing that made sense was the wind resistance with higher speeds caused more pedal angle and positive torque demand.
This keeps you out of regen more.

When you are driving in city traffic at low speeds, "L" gear will cost you more during slower steady state speeds. So while "L" will give some people better mileage because of ICE shutdowns and more regen, kicking it up in "D" while maintaining steady state speeds will help MPG even more at slower speeds.

Bottom line is, people who choose to drive the FEH/MMH in "D" with no changes, will most likely get better mileage in "L" in city driving. If they choose to change to "D" during segments of steady state speeds, it will improve mileage more. During my test at 30mph, "L" had the worst effect, and 40mph was not that much better. At 50mph, "L" steady state speed MPG started to improve alot.

When I know I'm coming to a segment of steady state speeds above EV range, I get at least one "L" fake shift (in my weather), and shift to "D" for a slower cooler charge in "D" as I accelerate slowly and hold my speed.

GaryG