All oils are not the same and all filters are not the same. The FEH calls for synthetic oil not the blend. 5W-20 Synthetic is a must NOT 5W-30 or 10W-30. The tolerences in the motor are designed for the thinner oil.Constant starting and stopping means the oil MUST flow quickly or you may under lube things like camshafts and main/rod bearings. Cheap filters are just that. You need a filter that can filter out fine particals in the 20-40 micron range some of the cheaper filters filter at 60 to 80 microns. Also cheaper filters do not have the filter area (# of pleats) that better filters will have. I use the NAPA Gold filters they are usually considered the best. I believe Mobil 1 does make an excellent 5W-20. Amsoil also makes a excellent 5W-20 but may be hard to find. Do a search on "motor oil bible" and you will have some good info.

 

Gpsman:

What it cost ya? The Ford dealer wants $30 for that filter!
Brand and Part Number for the Yamaha filter would be appreciated!

 

Price of the advance auto parts hybrid battery filter is only $17.77 (Purolator Cabin Air Filter) . See the prior post for the weblink.

 

Billyk:

Hmmmm, I did that. The site has it at $38.99. And I was saving $7.17 off the regular $46.16 retail price at that!

 

Spud-

What I got ( and I know 2 people who use them ) is a K&N part# YA-1602-U.

It is a wash & reuse filter, just like all their engine filters.

It used to cost $40 last year, now I think it is $42.
It is overkill? Probably. But since it is good for " 1 Million Miles" it is the only battery air filter you will EVER need to use.

I know one man who lives on a dusty, sandy, dirt road out in the California desert and he has been washing his every couple of months and sticking it back in. ( with or without oil? I don't know, forgot to ask )
We researched this together since he initially ( in 2005 ) could not get battery air filters, not even from a dealer, and in his "severe" conditions, his was dirty every 2-3,000 miles. Washing, drying, and re-inserting the stock paper one actually works very well, but it may not hold up in the long run. Mine, mostly used on pavement was fine for 25,000 miles. If you need one every 25,000 miles, maybe the cheaper paper ones are the right ones for you. If you live (drive) in dusty conditions, maybe this K&N washable filter is for you.

Since it is for motorcycle engine air intake, I'm sure it meets or exceeds the particle size filtering required to keep the battery... "happy".

The rubber gasket on the K&N part number above is shaped like a top hat. Carefully cut off the "brim" with a sharp knife or hack saw, and you have a perfect fit. Photo on the way.
-John

P.S. The correct part number for K&N 2005-2007 FEH engine air filter is 33-2347. Yes it works on 2005. Yes it was a typo on their web site that 2005 was omitted.

 

gpsman1:

Thanks. Use a K&N for the ICE. The paper filter was $45 (at Ford), the K&N was $42, a no brainer.

Wonder a little about oil mist, vapor, deposits - whatever and a K&N for the HV battery though. No problem?

 

As far as for oil mist or "vapor"... well, realistically, the velocity and quantity of air moving through the battery pack is much lower than for your engine. I do not think the battery compartment would have the required "suction" to pull oil into itself. That be said, use very little oil, or I think you would be ok with none at all. It supposedly comes "just right" from the factory, but they assume it will be used in an engine, of course. I feel it is a safe bet. The filter location is at least 3 feet from the nearest battery part also.

Photos: ( and with half a year, & 10,000 miles on it )



-John

 

gpsman1:

I always thought it would be fun to keep a car "till the wheels fall off".
Maybe there's a new challange to keep a car 'till the K&N's fall apart!

Thanks for the reply and the pics!

 

One of the problems I see all the time are coated massflow sensors because of oil impregnated filters like the K&N. I would not use them for the ICE. Also these are high performance, high flow filters they do not filter as fine a particle as the OE or a NAPA Gold.

 

MAF fouling is very rare, and almost impossible if you oil the filter correctly. There's more of a chance of the MAF sensor itself failing on its own than it is for a K&N filter to be the cause of it. Acutally, most of the time if an MAF sensor gets fouled by oil it's from what gets recirculated from the crankcase ventillation due to the PCV valve/system dumping it back into the intake airflow upstream of the MAF sensor. There's just not enough oil in that filter to cause the sensor to fail, especially when they only need to be cleaned and oiled every 30-40k miles.

http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/massair.htm

I've been using K & N filters for years in our fleet vehicles and have never had a problem with the MAFs fouling. They're cheaper in the long run and give you a lot more air flow than a paper filter.