The PCM needs a good ground to shutdown the modules also. I suggest you clean and check all the ground wires you can find.

GaryG

 

So Monday morning my battery was yet again too dead to start the car. The scangauge was disconnected ( I am not leaving it connected when car turned off. So I overnight "trickle charged" the battery with my charger at home.

HOWEVER - I did get a call from GuidePoint Sytems Sunday afternon telling me they got a low battery signal. I was not in the car at the time - I was touring a tall ship (4 masted Spanish ship - Juan Sebastian De Elcano) which was visiting Boston for a few days. I drove the Mariner in town and parked it in a garage while on the ship. When I returned to the car - it started fine.

When I bought my Mariner Hybrid the dealer sold me an anti theft - theft return system called guidepoint. There is a blinking blue light on the dash that is always blinking - even when the car is off. It also has a button - that if I push it - they call my cell phone to see if I need any kind of help. They can tell where I am. (Seems to be an "OnStar"-like service).

I wonder if this guidepoint systm is not letting my hybrid properly shut-down or go to sleep - and that is the route of the problem. Any thoughts about that?? Does anyone else have a GuidePoint sytem on their hybrid? Any thoughts appreciated.

 

The computer system is programmed differently in a FEH/MMH than standard gas Escapes and Mariners. I would give GuidePoint Sytems a call to their technical support and explain your problem. The dealership may have connected the system wrong or this system may not be compatible with Ford Hybrids. I'm sure GuidePoint Sytems has had this issue before if that is the problem, but who knows, you may be the first.

GaryG

 

A lot has happenned since June 15th when my Lincoln Mercury Dealer told me there was nothing found wrong with my Mariner Hybrid (Which frankly was impossible since it repeatitively pressurized the brakes while the car was off every day before June 15th and every day since - killing the battery) ...UNTIL disaster struck on Wed July 7th. I left Friday July 2 for an extended holiday weekend 112 miles from home at my summer cottage. I had already determined I needed to get my car to another Ford dealer that sells/servicesd many hyrids - which I would do upon return from the holiday break. I discovered a dead battery the afternoon of Tuesday July 6th. Having gotten into a routine (regrettably), I "trickle charged the car overnight. With confidance I packed the car on Wed. to return home, disconnected the battery charger and started the car. I put the car in drive - and it would not move. I put the car in reverse and it would not move. In fact, while in gear the ICE would not run above approximately 1000 RPM. I put the car in park or neutral and the ICE would rev up as much as I wanted it to - but of course the car would not move - would not even roll if pushed. Looking at all four disc brakes on the wheels and you could see they were all locked down tight on the rotors. (Interestingly I realized that the "brake override" worked fine - since brakes were "locked" - engine would not rev up - take note Toyota - this feature would save you many PR headaches). Anyway, I knew there was a good size Ford Dealer nearby (Irwin Ford/Lincoln/Mercury in Laconia NH). I called them and arranged to have a flat bed tow truck bring the car over to them. They were great! Very service oriented and thorough. They got to look at the car on Thursday and by mid morning they had determined that they needed to disconect the ABS braking system in order to move the truck. Ford authorized them to replace an ABS control module (a $1200 part) - which they did. They then experienced the brake pressurizing running off and on while engine off - keys out - wearing down the battery. They noted the ABS pump was drawing 25 amps while running. They offerred me two options: 1) - they would charge the batterry and let me return home to my dealer to work on the root cause - or 2) leave it with them and they assurred me they would find and fix the "ultimate" root cause problem. My dealer at home had 3 attempts (once the put in a new battery and 2 times found nothing wrong) The choice was easy - I left it with Irwin. It took a full week - but they found and fixed the problem - a bad HCU (a $4700 part). They also replaced the brake master cylinder, ABS Hydraulic control, new battery and various other parts. It now runs fine - and is completely quiet when shut down (no pressurizing running) - and I have had it 4 days now. Since I had only 34,816 miles on the truck - it was all covered under warranty - no cost to me. I have an extended service plan with Ford until 75,000 miles - but after 36,000 miles I will pay $100 deductible. Not bad. Ford also covered $28 per day of my rental car. VERY GLAD - it looks like I am over it! Thank you all for your helpful suggestions and thoughtful recomendations. To the poster who said he was expericeing a similar problem - reach out to me with private message and I can fax you dealer service paper work that may help you with your dealer.

 

I would have thought that the brake override system would work only if one is pressing the brake pedal and not if the brakes were being applied by someother means. That's the point of it, when the brakes are applied the throttle is disabled.