I had scratched all over my lift gate glass when I bought my 2006 FEH in August. I noticed it and got $1000 off. I dont notice it while driving and it appears to be just cosmetic but I havent needed my rear defrost yet so I dont know if the scratches will effect that or not. Im interested to know if anyone else had those scratches. My car was still shrink wrapped when I saw it on the lot.

 

Took delivery of 06 FEH 2WD on Aug. 8. A week later, noticed a blemish in the paint where the right front wheel lip met the side cladding. Took it to the dealer. 'Twas ready in a few hours. No other problems so far at 3800+ miles.

My take from others who know cars is that this is a well designed and well built set of wheels.
____________________

 

Same thing happened to me a few weeks ago. "Stop Vehicle Safely" meaage came up, on a warm day. Stopped, pushed f.o.r.d. to side of road ... let it cool off 15 mins, then went on.

1 week later, "high engine temperature" message came on. Engine still running, but front fans are going full speed noisy. Stopped, turned off engine, waited 15 mins, then moved on.

Brought car into dealer, they referenced the same TSB about the electronic coolant pump. They ordered part, got it the next morning, car runs better than ever, and much, much quieter.

Though ... it happened around 25k miles; after about 1 5/8's yrs on the road.
Jeez, if I have only that one problem at 25k ... and it's already a known quantity .. I think I have a good vehicle. Don't you?

 

YES!

 

After a week or so of "squealing and vibrating" sounds, I investigated my Motor / Electronics cooling Pump. The new SGII helped a lot.

It appears it is no longer "pumping", but is "running".

-The degas / fill bottle is full of foam
-My M/E coolant temperature never rises much above ambient
-My Generator Coil Temperature was 180'F on a 10'F day.
-My Traction Motor was 160-170'F on a 10'F day.
-When you open the degas / fill bottle, there is no circulation
-When you touch the hoses, they are ice cold, while the engine and radiator is hot.

Yup, I'm 99.9% sure I need a new M/E coolant pump.
There was a TSB out for this "problem" in 2005.

When I called the dealer today, the Part Number has changed.

Original M/E pump part number: 5M6Z-8C419-AD
New M/E pump part number: 6M6Z-8C419-A

( The 8C419 in the middle is the part number on the schematics )

I don't know if new part number = revised part, or just a new number.

List Price $260.94
Dealer Mark-up = $308.00
Labor = 1.3 hours typical

But Lucky me, I have Extended warranty to 6/60,000.
I am almost to 49,000 miles right now.

The "180'F on a 10'F day" was strange, but not harmful.
I did not have any Malfunction Lamps, Codes, or Messages.
Only the change in sounds was my clue, and getting the temperatures with the ScanGauge helped me confirm.

The workshop manual ( 2005 ) says a MIL (dummy light) will trigger at Generator / Motor temp of 220'C ( 428'F ) !!! Does that sound right?

-John

 

2 days after I picked up my MMH the "Wrench" light went on. Took it to my dealer who diagnosed the problem as related to the HV battery pack (either the pack itself was defective or the input/output controller was defective). Anyway a new battery pack was ordered and my defective one was replaced. During the week I drove my MMH with the "Wrench" light on there were no signs of any driveability issues. If the "Wrench" light was not on I would not have been aware of any problem. BTW: my dealer was great in getting this problem taken care of in record time (it ocurred during the 4th of July holiday period which was a difficult time to get parts and replacement approval from Ford).

Since then, with almost 6,000 miles on my MMH, no issues whatsoever. I love my MMH!

 

John, any chance there's a leak in the M/E coolant loop? Your symptoms sound like what happens when the coolant in my CPU cooler gets low enough that the circulation pump sucks air.

 

I really don't think so.
There is liquid in the lines, and the degas / fill reservoir.
Possible... And I'll go look closer now that I have a day maybe above freezing.
It does sound like the pump is spinning, but cavitating. (sp?)

Edit: Pretty sure the fluid is fine. The fill bottle is full to the line, and I can feel liquid when I squish the lines.
The M/E pump makes more noise than usual, and vibrates quite a bit when I put my hand on it when it is running.

 

The Hybrid Tech I spoke with was telling me the electric pump on the FEH goes out at about 50,000 miles. I thought he was talking about the heater pump, but he said later he was talking about the ME coolant pump. He said he had replaced a number of them not under warranty and for me to be prepared for mine to go bad also. More than likely I will change it myself when that time comes because I don't have the extended warranty.

It might be a good idea for us to start a thread on this problem and post pictures on the work involved in the procedure to replace the ME coolant motor. Has anyone attempted to do this work and can you give us some details or problems?

GaryG

 

It looks very easy to do, and very easy to access from under the car.

All you need to do is remove two bolts, two hoses, and the electrical quick disconnect. I would for sure do it myself if I did not already have an extended warranty. As far as I can tell, you do not need any special tools, nor need to be a hybrid tech.

The part probably will not be "in stock" at most dealers, but most can get one in about 3 days. You can drive without this pump ( I've done it for a week ) if the weather is cool, and the car does not trip some LOS or shut things down.

You will of course need to spill ( or collect ) some coolant, and refill the system when you are done.

See workshop manual 307-02B-1