Yup, makes more sense that the bat temps are in F, which would mean that all the temps must be in F (they would not be a mix would they?). However, given that, then some of my readouts do not jive with what was posted in the ScanG posting. That is, the said hard fast rule that you won't get EV unless the water temp is at least 125F. On my few longer drives these days engine temp has never gone over reading 90 on the ScanG, however, I have got EV at those readings, and lower.

If engine temp is indeed extrapolated from CHT (guess one could figure out the formula), CHT would be no where near the stated 216F required for EV. Even in warmer temps I never saw CHT anywhere near 216. Thus it seems the mystery of what parameters my car likes for EV here in the cold north, remain that, a MYSTERY!

In the future, I shall start to keep a record of temp specs when I get EV and ambient temp. I have a few long drives planned next week where if I don't get EV I'll really be wondering. Once I have a few I'll post the bat/CHT/CAT and engine readings that did allow EV in cold weather.

 

I live close to work, which is the majority of my trips during the week, and lows lately have approached zero, but I do keep my FEH in a unattached garage at night. Even when running 30 minutes of errands I couldn't get it to stay in EV mode for long. In order to regain EV mode, I had to drive for an hour a highway speed to get the battery up to temp.

 

Look at my post in the scanguage thread. I can go EV when my Fwt (radiator) temperature exceeds 154 F and CHT exceeds 188 F from a cold start. Once I exceed that temperature, I can maintain EV below that temperature. It really helps to have a plug in engine block heater. I just had mine repaired (Thursday) and the last two mornings I have had immediate electric assist--driving down the SOC. I need to check the current SOC with what I have in the AM on Sunday.

 

The car's native data is in Hexidecimal.
The ScanGauge can display each parameter individually in either C or F.
You have the power to change the math to make it read whatever you wish!
( You could even use Kelvin degrees, or zagbit degrees {whatever you wish} )
-John

 

Hexidecimal? Ok, whats a hexs a whatever of say 20 converted to F or C? A quick search, and I couldn't find a way to convert. Today, with some extended driving in the deep freeze going on around here, temps, -27ish C (that about neg 17 F), found the following. Engine, running around 80-90, Bat, in 30's, and CHT 17-21. Found that EV would never happen until CHT read at least 21 point something. Then Engine would restart whenever CHT dropped below 18. Now, at a light I could force the engine to stay off by shifting to N until the light changed. At most lights, the CHT had gone to 17ish by then.

Also, I was surprised to notice that contrary to the manual, EV would occur even when the heat control was in the full or semi defrost position.

 

I've been experimenting with possible ways to keep my wife more comfortable on our early morning COLD drives to the office. Currently I have an inverter, A/C timer, and 300/500 A/C watt ceramic heater to preheat the passenger cabin and the seats (A/C battery charger).

Haven't yet determined/concluded how much battery it will take to get the cabin to a reasonable warmth with the RX in our attached by non-heated garage at night.

 

The native data on the SG can be changed from english/metric, but the FEH-specific xgauges are hard-coded as far as units. Use the list I published on this site, as the Linear Logic site has not updated/corrected the values in over a year. I suspect your CHT reading is off by a factor of 10. If you want any of the other temp readings in C, it is easy enough to do.
<img src="https://www.greenhybrid.com/share/fi...ges_111108.JPG" alt="FEH xgauge coding" />

 

DesertDog: thanks for that ScanG link. I'll reset mine for C specs as per the data.