"Something to consider - you can hear when the engine is loaded and charging the battery. If you need to park the car again for an extended period, you could initiate the rmode balance function and then terminate it when the engine stops charging the battery. This should ensure the battery is at a higher state of charge." If an owner were to do this, what higher SOC range would you expect to see? Is there any negative aspect of terminating "rmode" prematurely?
Didn't think of it at the time, but also worth verifying the battery is at an elevated SoC after terminating the Rmode balance function.
SOC is maintained around 50%. Battery efficiency is near 100% around 50%. If SOC was at 100%, you couldn't charge the battery when you hit the brakes.
The HV battery is just a energy recovery and release system. It's primary function is to capture kinetic energy via regenerative braking and release it during acceleration when the gas engine is most inefficient.
This is really great info. Thanks!
Originally Posted by S Keith
DEL_MOD_V is the single most relevant item for battery health. With batteries that appear to be healthy, I routinely see values of .19 or .25. This number represents the largest deviation between the measured cell groups. If you actually have a failed cell, this number will be over 1.0V. It's a good idea to also check it 24 hours after the car has been idle in the Key-ON Engine-OFF state.
How long should I leave the car in "idle" in the key ON engine Off state? I can wait 24 hours with moving it then check. Should I drain the 12volt? or should I leave it 'idle' for like, 5 mins?
Originally Posted by S Keith
Something to consider - you can hear when the engine is loaded and charging the battery. If you need to park the car again for an extended period, you could initiate the rmode balance function and then terminate it when the engine stops charging the battery. This should ensure the battery is at a higher state of charge.
I thought I could prevent the discharge of the hybrid battery by disconnecting the 12volt battery. Is this wrong?
24 hr check process is simple:
Park car.
Let it sit for at least 24 hours.
Key on/engine off
Immediately check BCM parameters with Forscan
Done
The point is to get a snapshot of data after the BATTERY has sat for 24 hours without being charged.
Disconnecting the 12V is what it says in the owner's manual - if 30 days or more. I don't entirely trust it. 10+ year old Cylindrical NiMH can have some pretty bad self-discharge, and yours discharged in only two weeks last time. That's not typical. Letting the balance function run for several minutes in preparation for an extended sit + 12V disconnect is your best insurance from having to repeat this exercise.
Negligible SoC/voltage drop and Delta_mod_v still .13.
Still perplexed by the discharge in 2 weeks. Maybe, if you have a habit of attempting to keep the car in EV mode as long as possible, it might have been at the bottom end of the operating range and more susceptible to discharge in a shorter period.
Negligible SoC/voltage drop and Delta_mod_v still .13.
Still perplexed by the discharge in 2 weeks. Maybe, if you have a habit of attempting to keep the car in EV mode as long as possible, it might have been at the bottom end of the operating range and more susceptible to discharge in a shorter period.
Well it's been a week and now... new problem? Maybe related? The engine still turns over just fine. But now I have a new set of codes. They appear on acceleration...
P0A1F
P0A1F-20
B12A5-60- Mode Door Actuator, Feedback Circuit Open or Shorted to Battery Voltage - I have replaced two out of three in the front of the SUV. The last one is in the passenger side dash. I don't think this is related- but I have both Ice and Heat on Passenger and Diver so I am posting it anyway.
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10-15-2020, 05:28 PM
Re: P1A10, Another "Stop Safely Now" Thread
Re: P1A10, Another "Stop Safely Now" Thread
