I've seen $1 spark plugs on $10,000 engines making 800+HP. Yes, they got changed frequently but they would do the job rather nicely.

As for the aluminum heads... you just gotta hand start them and strictly adhere to the torque settings. It takes about 5 minutes to change plugs in most race cars. It takes longer to fill up the gas tank most of the time... :0

 

OK, and thank you for the oppinions, but any ideas how to test these plugs with a scan gauge?

Thanks

Rick

 

I'm very skeptical that there is a "improved gas mileage" spark plug out there. The effect would be immediately reflected in EPA mileage testing. If there was a plug that could increase the FEH (or Prius or HCH or anything else) wouldn't the manufacturer be installing them in the factory. I do think a better plug could give optimum gas mileage for a longer period of time and I'm an NGK fan because of this, but I seriously doubt that you can find a plug that would make a significant improvement in an FEH.

 

While I may be skeptical, the effect would not be immediately reflected in EPA testing. Manufacturers aren't going to spend that much for spark plugs. At least not on all vehicles. Besides that, there is a resistance to change.

I am looking forward to the test results, no matter what they are. Sadly, I don't have any test methods. I've just tracked mileage, but that's best done when the temperature isn't really changing. Good luck!

 

I am going to wait until the weather stabalizes a bit and then I will track gas milage. I am afraid my results won't be very accurate. Pulstar's web site shows a 3 to 12% MPG increase with various cars. I am not sure what level of accuracy I can get from Miles Driven / Gallons of Gasoline.

It looks like May will be the month.

 

LL spark plugs probably first came into "being" because many of us got very tired of hearing the engine spark in our audio system. I think maybe even the FCC stepped into "this" one.

So, resistive spark plugs and resistive high tension wiring came on the scene.

(And many "gearheads" of the time insisted on staying with solid wire core high tension wiring and non-resistive spark plugs. One could always tell when one of those drove by.)

The "spark" voltage, >25,000 volts, still reached the gap just as quickly but once the "arc" formed, jumped the gap, the current flow was limited by the overall resistance. Just like the way your HID headlamps work today.

It was not long after that that it was realized that the arc was not wearing the anode away (little ION flow) so quickly and manufacturers begin selling plugs with the embedded resistance/resistor as LL plugs.

Ivory Soap, "99% pure....., it floats".

Nowadays since there was no requirement for the big metallic spark anode, small amounts of EXPENSIVE noble metals can be used to act as catalysts.

 

Anyone know the torque settings for FEH's spark plugs?

Thanks.

 

I would be quite interested in the results. If they were to provide beneficial results, it seems like one would see at least a 15% improvement in mileage which would be certainly measurable. I know in aircraft engines that have two sets of spark plugs, there is increased efficiency with two. One thing you might consider is the change in burn pattern / intensity which could burn holes in the pistons.

Chuck

 

Supposedly that is not a problem. The very intense spark is for a very short duration. It is my understanding that this has happened in modified cars, and they warn not to use these plugs in modified cars.

Is there some thing that can be measured with a scan gauge that can tell me if I have a problem with “hot” pistons or some way of knowing if this will happen before it actually happens?

One would think there would be a lot of reports of this happening, because I can’t be the only person who has bought these plugs.

We will see what happens.

Also, anyone know how much torque to tighten the plugs?

 

9 Lb/Ft for the plugs and 71 Lb/In for the coil bolts