I havent installet my setup on my 06 FEH yet but I've taken apart the tail light to know I've got the right setup. Ordered all the parts from e-trailer.com.

I'm using a two part system.

The first is a 30130 T-connector from Valley. This is a small box with wiring harnesses that go to both tail lights. On the drivers side there is a male and female connector in series that is tapped to the box. You unplug the harness to the tail light, plug the harness into the T-connector that matches and then plug the other end of the male/female set back into the taillight. On the drivers side there is one connector for the brake/tail light and another for the turn signal. A second wire is routed to the other tail light and hooks into the other turn signal (so you have left and right turn signals). The T-connector has a 4-pin trailer harness. Now on most cars you'd be done, but it seems that on the FEH the system monitors the current through the taillight wires and you can trigger the system inside that says you have an external light failure.

To prevent that you get parts 2 and 3. Part two is known as a Modulite. Its from Draw-Tite and is number #18193. The modulite has a two connectors that hook to a 4-pin trailer connector. One attaches to the output from the T-connector, the other end goes to your trailer. The modulite also has a connection that goes all the way back to your battery. The idea of the modulite is that it reads the signals on the T-connector but provides current to the trailer directly form your battery. Therefore your tail lights don't see the load, and the external light failure isn't triggered. It can provide up to 10 amps to the trailer. Part 3 is just a kit that provides a wire and fuse to hook up the modulite to the battery.... Its also from Draw-tite #18151.

You CAN just use the modulite alone and forego the T-connector but this entails using vampire connectors to tap into the correct wires on your harness... requiring more knowledge to get right and frankly I'm not conviced the result would be as weather tight.

Hope that makes sense... the boxes for the modulite and the T-connector are both weathertight and can be mounted under the vehicle.

I'm pretty darn sure this is what you need.... It certainly looks like it will all fit and do what we both need... I haven't had a chance to put it in yet though.....

Those of you out there with a Mariner will need a different T-connector because your turn signals are integrated with your brake lamps (ie the brake lamp flashes as a turn signal) on the escape we have a separate amber taillamp.

In summary I think for the FEH you need:

30130 T-connnector from Valley
18193 Modulite adapter
18151 Modulite Wiring Kit

Hope that helps...

 

I don't think the weight limit is a matter of what the FEH/MMH can handle. I'm sure it is capable of towing and stopping alot more weight. My guess is that the increased strain over time on the motors and battery will shorten their lives and as a matter of warranty they don't want to "sanction" the added strains. Also, since the transmission has NO reverse, all backing up is done via the electric motors....when the ICE comes on it is only to supplement the electrical current to the motors. I would not recommend trying to back a heavy trailer anywhere, let alone up a hill.

 

I wouldn't sanction towing anything more than a 6-8 foot utility trailer. The FEH wasn't designed to bear more than that. Yet there are many who ignore specs, rig their own modifications and promote themselves as experts on these sites.Don't believe any of these suggestions!!!! Buying some non OEM untested parts from pirate manufacturers is the route to a disaster when towing. Wind sheer alone can cause total loss of control of a poorly balanced towing combo. Braking,suspension,steering,tire specs,and transmission are so important when towing, that testing it's limits can be fatal. I tow a TT, and have for years, but this is not the type of vehicle to do it in. IMHO

 

The two axle U-Haul trailers have a brake system with a mechanical/hydraulic sensor built into the trailer tongue. Whenever you brake the car, the tongue is compressed (the trailer is pushing the car) and the trailer brakes come on until it is no longer compressed.

However, the tongue also becomes compressed if you are trying to back up quickly or in a sharp corner. Then the brakes come on and make it even harder.

With the pure mechanical system there is no way to get around this. An electrical connection between your brake lights and the trailer brakes could help prevent the problem, but U-haul took the cheap route and didn't include one.

 

I Have been looking a getting a T@B trailer, which are rated at about 2,000lbs I was really disappointed to find out the restriction on the FEH is only 1,000lbs.

Anyone have any experience towing this type of trailer, or this amount of weight?

 

I agree I'd keep it very small (pulling a chipper, a trailer with a snowmobile would be about all I'd give a go at)... truth is I usually only use my hitch for a bike rack. I think the lighting kits from Valley and Draw-Tite aren't really "pirate manufacturers" though so I hope you weren't referring to that.

 

You can tow 1000lbs. at any speed for any length of time.

You can tow more than this if you slow down, and don't do it every day.

Last week, I saw a FEH towing the 2nd largest U-Haul trailer they make, plus the guy had a cargo carrier on top of the car, plus 4 passengers. Oh... he was also climbing a 7% grade up the Rockies at 55+ MPH. Was he "over-loaded"? For sure.

Wow. Not sure if that's necessarily good for the car, but it was certainly capable. -John

 

John, any idea on what the effects of towing more than that would be?

 

Primarily, your engine will over heat.
If you do a lot of stop and go with a heavy trailer, then your electric motor could over-heat. ( It will then be instructed by the computer to just stop helping with torque.)

Keep in mind stopping power... which is pretty good, but not designed for continuous use stopping something heavy.

Consider your drving conditions and distances involved if you choose to tow more than 1000 lbs ( Which, I know, is almost nothing ).

 

Hey everyone,
Last week I bought a 14ft Shasta camper trailer that weighs approx. 1500lbs. Towed it from Omaha-DC with the FEH. Biggest issue I had was wind resistance at speed. There were 35kt winds in IA...almost a headwind. At times, I could not go above 55mph without redlining the engine. I tried very hard to keep the rpms below 4500.
In Ohio....with the headwind gone....I maintained 55-60mph fairly easy...with the engine settling at ~3500rpm on flat ground.
I didn't have any issues with a UHAUL trailer....1800lbs...so I really think most of the probs were due to wind. Oh yeah, just had to be real careful in the App mtns....up the hills (+7% grade) I just hugged the right lane and held rpms no higher than 5k.
MPGs ranged from 12-16.
I know the CVT revs a lot....but 5k seems unnerving to me...is there anything wrong with 4500-5000k for an extended amount of time?
No issues at all with speeds below 35mph...even in traffic. No probs whatsoever with braking or accel...as long as you take it easy and don't do anything stupid.
Clarence, I know you tow a lot...anything to add?

Nate