P1A88 help please
#1
10-02-2022, 06:43 PM
P1A88 help please
Hello everyone! help who can. first encountered a hybrid. bought a car with a bad engine. she didn't start. repaired the motor for a very long time. during this period of time, the battery has lost its charge. charged separately all 40 cans. started up great. but! running at idle, there are no errors. runs weird on petrol. if the car has switched to electricity. runs well at idle. but if you give acceleration, it immediately stalls and error P1A88-00 appears. who experienced, tell me where to look what to look for ?? please!!!!!!!
#5
10-02-2022, 08:02 PM
Re: P1A88 help please
thanks a lot for the file. he is very helpful!! Thanks. For some reason I can't find my mistake. maybe looking bad. I'll review it again tomorrow) if you know where it is, can you tell me the page?) thanks
#6
10-03-2022, 01:40 PM
Re: P1A88 help please
explored possible issues today. if you start moving smoothly, then accelerate, everything goes fine. but as soon as she tries to turn on the electric, there is a jerk and a knock. If not switched, it continues to go further. I tried to open the hood, because a car with an open hood does not turn on the electric motor, it runs on gasoline. on gasoline rides without crackles and knocks, everything is fine. if you start moving when it is on electricity, it rides smoothly, slowly. but rather quickly turns on the gasoline engine. if you start abruptly on gasoline or electric, it makes a jerk and stalls. and then the error described above. After that, it starts up just like before.
#7
10-03-2022, 02:02 PM
Re: P1A88 help please
sorry I don't see your error code in that list either. I can look it up in a few days when I'm around the computer. but judging by your last post about the hood, it's 95% the hybrid battery is struggling and at the end of its useful life. one tip is to pull the shifter down into M4 mode, it will not go into auto stop and help you diagnose if there's any problems besides the battery.
also there's a thread here about how to use one of those 20$ obd2 Bluetooth scanners and the phone all torque pro for 5$ and add the custom "pids" to log each battery voltage, Temps, state of charge and current used from the battery. that will go a long way to telling you if the battery is working right. but honestly, by 100k these trucks have basically killed the capacity of the battery packs.
https://electricvehicleforums.com/fo...results-31736/
also there's a thread here about how to use one of those 20$ obd2 Bluetooth scanners and the phone all torque pro for 5$ and add the custom "pids" to log each battery voltage, Temps, state of charge and current used from the battery. that will go a long way to telling you if the battery is working right. but honestly, by 100k these trucks have basically killed the capacity of the battery packs.
https://electricvehicleforums.com/fo...results-31736/
#8
10-03-2022, 03:03 PM
Re: P1A88 help please
sorry I don't see your error code in that list either. I can look it up in a few days when I'm around the computer. but judging by your last post about the hood, it's 95% the hybrid battery is struggling and at the end of its useful life. one tip is to pull the shifter down into M4 mode, it will not go into auto stop and help you diagnose if there's any problems besides the battery.
also there's a thread here about how to use one of those 20$ obd2 Bluetooth scanners and the phone all torque pro for 5$ and add the custom "pids" to log each battery voltage, Temps, state of charge and current used from the battery. that will go a long way to telling you if the battery is working right. but honestly, by 100k these trucks have basically killed the capacity of the battery packs.
https://electricvehicleforums.com/fo...results-31736/
also there's a thread here about how to use one of those 20$ obd2 Bluetooth scanners and the phone all torque pro for 5$ and add the custom "pids" to log each battery voltage, Temps, state of charge and current used from the battery. that will go a long way to telling you if the battery is working right. but honestly, by 100k these trucks have basically killed the capacity of the battery packs.
https://electricvehicleforums.com/fo...results-31736/
#9
10-03-2022, 06:17 PM
Re: P1A88 help please
M4 is a mode on your shifter. like PNRDM if you go down one from Drive what would be low range in a normal car is M in these trucks. you can drive in M4 and it won't go into auto stop mode. it will not go into the super overdrive on the highway so you get a little less mpg but it's good to know for the stalling.
since you have a scanner, read thru the thread linked and you'll get an idea what you're looking for as far as battery voltage goes and then log the battery voltage of all 20 cells. the state of charge (SOC) the over all battery voltage and the hybrid battery current then go drive. when you replay it, you want all 20 battery voltage to stay around 0.2v if each other cell by cell. since you won't see that unless it's a brand new oem battery, if it gets much worse than 0.5v-1v you'll notice it driving badly sometimes when it goes to start the engine while moving the truck at the same time, usually worse with the ac on. by 1.5v it will set a check engine light for a bad battery every now and then. by the time I changed my hybrid battery there were over 2v difference between cells, the pack was completely dead, got a code a few times randomly and sometimes it would feel like the tranny slipping in gear while backing up, the bucking sometimes, worse when hot out and max ac on. new hybrid Battery and the truck runs like new.
some good info in that battery tread. there's also an upgrade for the aux transmission fluid pump. if the battery isn't to bad, it might be worth trying that. it will cause the weird tranny issues too. I believe the upgrade is about 400$ with the new wiring harness and pump. they used the new pump from 2010 or 2011 and up trucks and made a retro harness to use it on the older ones.
the aux pump runs off the 12v battery and pulls a good amount of power, the 12v battery is charged by the inverter (no alternator) from the hybrid battery. so it's pretty important to have a good 12v battery to keep up with the current drain while the hybrid system is driving the truck and cranking the engine. especially if your hybrid Battery is getting weak.
since you have a scanner, read thru the thread linked and you'll get an idea what you're looking for as far as battery voltage goes and then log the battery voltage of all 20 cells. the state of charge (SOC) the over all battery voltage and the hybrid battery current then go drive. when you replay it, you want all 20 battery voltage to stay around 0.2v if each other cell by cell. since you won't see that unless it's a brand new oem battery, if it gets much worse than 0.5v-1v you'll notice it driving badly sometimes when it goes to start the engine while moving the truck at the same time, usually worse with the ac on. by 1.5v it will set a check engine light for a bad battery every now and then. by the time I changed my hybrid battery there were over 2v difference between cells, the pack was completely dead, got a code a few times randomly and sometimes it would feel like the tranny slipping in gear while backing up, the bucking sometimes, worse when hot out and max ac on. new hybrid Battery and the truck runs like new.
some good info in that battery tread. there's also an upgrade for the aux transmission fluid pump. if the battery isn't to bad, it might be worth trying that. it will cause the weird tranny issues too. I believe the upgrade is about 400$ with the new wiring harness and pump. they used the new pump from 2010 or 2011 and up trucks and made a retro harness to use it on the older ones.
the aux pump runs off the 12v battery and pulls a good amount of power, the 12v battery is charged by the inverter (no alternator) from the hybrid battery. so it's pretty important to have a good 12v battery to keep up with the current drain while the hybrid system is driving the truck and cranking the engine. especially if your hybrid Battery is getting weak.
#10
10-03-2022, 06:24 PM
Re: P1A88 help please
M4 is a mode on your shifter. like PNRDM if you go down one from Drive what would be low range in a normal car is M in these trucks. you can drive in M4 and it won't go into auto stop mode. it will not go into the super overdrive on the highway so you get a little less mpg but it's good to know for the stalling.
since you have a scanner, read thru the thread linked and you'll get an idea what you're looking for as far as battery voltage goes and then log the battery voltage of all 20 cells. the state of charge (SOC) the over all battery voltage and the hybrid battery current then go drive. when you replay it, you want all 20 battery voltage to stay around 0.2v if each other cell by cell. since you won't see that unless it's a brand new oem battery, if it gets much worse than 0.5v-1v you'll notice it driving badly sometimes when it goes to start the engine while moving the truck at the same time, usually worse with the ac on. by 1.5v it will set a check engine light for a bad battery every now and then. by the time I changed my hybrid battery there were over 2v difference between cells, the pack was completely dead, got a code a few times randomly and sometimes it would feel like the tranny slipping in gear while backing up, the bucking sometimes, worse when hot out and max ac on. new hybrid Battery and the truck runs like new.
some good info in that battery tread. there's also an upgrade for the aux transmission fluid pump. if the battery isn't to bad, it might be worth trying that. it will cause the weird tranny issues too. I believe the upgrade is about 400$ with the new wiring harness and pump. they used the new pump from 2010 or 2011 and up trucks and made a retro harness to use it on the older ones.
the aux pump runs off the 12v battery and pulls a good amount of power, the 12v battery is charged by the inverter (no alternator) from the hybrid battery. so it's pretty important to have a good 12v battery to keep up with the current drain while the hybrid system is driving the truck and cranking the engine. especially if your hybrid Battery is getting weak.
since you have a scanner, read thru the thread linked and you'll get an idea what you're looking for as far as battery voltage goes and then log the battery voltage of all 20 cells. the state of charge (SOC) the over all battery voltage and the hybrid battery current then go drive. when you replay it, you want all 20 battery voltage to stay around 0.2v if each other cell by cell. since you won't see that unless it's a brand new oem battery, if it gets much worse than 0.5v-1v you'll notice it driving badly sometimes when it goes to start the engine while moving the truck at the same time, usually worse with the ac on. by 1.5v it will set a check engine light for a bad battery every now and then. by the time I changed my hybrid battery there were over 2v difference between cells, the pack was completely dead, got a code a few times randomly and sometimes it would feel like the tranny slipping in gear while backing up, the bucking sometimes, worse when hot out and max ac on. new hybrid Battery and the truck runs like new.
some good info in that battery tread. there's also an upgrade for the aux transmission fluid pump. if the battery isn't to bad, it might be worth trying that. it will cause the weird tranny issues too. I believe the upgrade is about 400$ with the new wiring harness and pump. they used the new pump from 2010 or 2011 and up trucks and made a retro harness to use it on the older ones.
the aux pump runs off the 12v battery and pulls a good amount of power, the 12v battery is charged by the inverter (no alternator) from the hybrid battery. so it's pretty important to have a good 12v battery to keep up with the current drain while the hybrid system is driving the truck and cranking the engine. especially if your hybrid Battery is getting weak.
