Copy on all that, still here, its working on discharge #3 now.
Then charge to full and wait a week.

I'll pickup the load tester this week also. I think I saw when Peter P ran his sticks on a load tester they would drop to 6Volts! I know i'm trying to just take the top 20 of the 40 but what ranges should I be expecting for a decent stick?

The balance of the battery at lower voltages has ..changed... but I dont know if I would say it has improved except that the weakest one is now closer to the rest.
The reading at 106V, left is first discharge, right is second.

10.50 10.87
10.38 10.73
10.97 11.59
13.08 12.18
9.27 9.71
7.67 8.09
8.64 9.52
11.01 10.64
9.36 10.20
11.42 11.37

Problem here is the second measurement took less time than the first.
I started both at 106V but by the time i was done the first one we were down to 102.3 and
second ended at 104.9.
Another imprecision is that discharge one was 15 hours at .37 while discharge 2 I wanted to speed up the process and ran at .58 until the volt meter read 105, then swapped in the 60 watts and waited for the recovered 110V under lighter load to come down to 106 again.

Computed capacity gain was a small, less than a quarter of an amp hour.

 

Regarding Recal triggers.

What causes the computer to throw up its hands and execute a recal vs if the car had high self discharge (and temp change) overnight and when the battery is used it just moves the gauge further and faster to reflect the new readings?

Does it take readings from the battery periodically (like a gas tank gauge) or just calibrate once and then the SoC merely indicates "This is where you should be all other things equal" and when a threshold is reached (lower than expected amp output perhaps) it decides to find a new starting point for its estimates.


Reason I ask is if this pack seems to be good except for high SD, I am curious how that would impact would be felt if it was driven 6 days a week, the little loss from sitting 12 hours would be mitigated the next time I hit the brakes (unless as assumed above, its not really estimating based on readings so much as assuming based on what its told the battery to do + the initial calibration -- which would eventually diverge from reality severely enough for a recal)


RE the load tester, I've wanted one for a while, waking up to a dead battery when it started fine the day before is....irritating.

 

SoC calculation is iterative and based on averages of the 10 taps.

There are recalibration limits for a given temperature. If a tap or all taps pack hits a limit, it triggers a recal. Essentially, they are limits that shouldn't be hit during normal operation.

Think of it as for a given temperature, and a given SoC based on the average of the taps, an outlier hits a limit and skews things. Now the BCM hits the reset button and starts charging at a controlled rate to assess voltage response to recompute SoC.

SD is rarely uniform across 120 cells. It's very common to find 1-2 cells within a stick that are holding > 1.2V with the others under 1V. You can imagine how having pack full of these sticks is a mess. The car can't see issues at the cell level, but it sees symptoms of issues at the cell level.

If SD was uniform across all cells, then your scenario would work. I have actually seen this on HCH2 packs... they lose ALL their charge overnight, throw a code and go nuts first thing in the morning, but after a big recal, they will drive fine until they've sat for too long... which is usually overnight, 10-12 hours.

Also consider that most cars sit for 22-23 hours per day.

 

The fact that they're a little more uniform is a good indication, but anything below 13.2V on a tap get's pretty unpredictable, and anything under 12V gets VERY unpredictable.

Generally speaking, things look good.

How were they at ~144?

 

at 144V under a load pulling 550mA

14.48
14.46
14.53
14.56
14.39
14.15
14.32
14.36
14.37
14.50

Looks like the same tap is the problem in both packs.
Question. (and I'm sorry if you have covered it already)

Pack A is doing nothing but start the car.
Can I pull it out and begin grid charging it or will the car not move without it?

 

THAT is what I like to see... 144V under load... those discrepancies are VERY telling.


14.15 is highly likely to be a problem child.


The car will not run without a pack installed; however, you can install an empty pack in bypass mode:


http://www.prolongima.com/hch/removal/bypass.html


Basically, you need the junction board connected. I have personally done this on a HCH1. The only issue is a lack of 12V charging OUTSIDE 1500-3500rpm (or so). In most cases, it's not an issue.

 

I'm already experiencing that...
If i wasn't measuring it each day I'd put pack B in there in bypass.

 

okay now we have a new problem. I started the car up to go to work today everything happened as has become normal except for about a second the battery was being charged before the relay snapped shut (as it always does after rhe ICE starts.) But now the 12 volt battery light is staying on even as I'm keeping the accelerator up between 2 and 3 Grand... and it's been there for about 10 minutes. Is there some kind of fuse in the ac to dc system that could have blown?

 

At some point, the taps can get so bad, the DC-DC is disabled.

 

I thought that just meant no 12v charging unless ICE between 1500 and 3500rpm.

it was not charging AT ALL if MIL is to be believed.


ok on ride home tho