You don't need to pay for a dealer diagnostics. P1570 is individual module imbalance and P0A7F is deterioration. Your battery is 100% bad. P1570 indicates one or more failed subpacks.

It is highly likely you'll be doing this 3-4 more times, and your last battery will crap out shortly after the warranty is up. It's not necessarily a reflection of Falcon (except that they should have figured this out), but an indication of the near impossibility to build a reliable reconditioned HCH2 pack. You need to understand that failure rates for 06-08 models were 1 in 6 in 5-7 years. For the 09-10 models, it was over 30% in 3-4 years. These are NEW Honda packs. You're getting a reconditioned pack build with subpacks that are 8+ years old.

Sorry to hear you are having difficulty.

Good luck,

Steve

 

Hi Steve;

I am sort of stuck right now. I still owe too much on the used car purchase to give up installing used batteries until the warranty is up. after I keep paying on my loan and keep installing batteries... I might reach a neutral ground after 18 months to do a refinance or a trade in and get a 'normal' vehicle. I am just in a bad place right now. But still believe that I can overcome. Thanks again for your timely responses.
Kloignon

 

As long as Falcon continues to honor their warranty, you should be good. They might get tired of sending you replacement packs and actually put a little more effort into it to make it the last one they have to send. They are likely giving insufficient attention to self-discharge, which is what kills this cells.

I'm sorry that I sound so negative. This is just my reality. I still own 8 packs worth of subpacks (88 stick pairs). Less than 20% are good, and half of those are marginal suitable only for use with periodic grid charging. Fortunately, I have other uses for them.

 

Hi Steve;

So are you in the business? or just a collector? LOL. I hope they do give me a battery that works at least as long as the first one. (one month!) I am sort of tired of installing the batteries.

If you must know, which you probably wish you did not know, I actually had an episode after installing the first one; where after 10 years menopause; I had a menstrual cycle! I know! that is TMI! to the max!! but on top of car repair bills; I then had medical bills to diagnose my situation and make sure I was not dying! I am not dying. Good news comes in little spurts around here! But none the less, I was shocked and awed on a different level than the military! Again, thank you for your insight. The most current situation is that my car starts in the morning. with all the lights going: IMA battery; Check engine light; and Battery light. Along with some bars showing. But no assist or charging bars. I can drive a few miles; and if I stop; turn off the engine and wait 10 seconds or so; I turn back on the engine to find all but the check engine light off; and green charging bars showing while I am in park along with about two battery bars of power. I get assist bars and green charging bars from then on while I drive. But now, after the engine is completely warmed up the IMA battery light comes on. I am convinced I will have to reinstall a battery. But I have a system, now, after the first time that cause me such medical issues! I turn off the auxiliary battery and the main IMA battery switch the first day. Let it sit over night. I then remove the IMA battery the next day. I wait to install the IMA battery until the next day after that... so it is a three day process; but my health is worth it!

Thanks again,

Kloignon

 

Yes. I am in the business. For Honda IMA, I only install new Bumblebee Batteries with 3 year warranties.

I also own 2X G1 Insights and 3 Prius.... I have a problem.

My primary "business" is with Gen 2 Prius. It's just a part-time thing though.

LOL... married 17 years. TMI is a foreign concept. Glad you have a handle on it.

What you are describing is P1570 tap voltage failures (one or more of the 11 voltages monitored in the pack are low/mis-matched). The car wants nothing to do with the battery. DC-DC converter can't make sense of the hybrid battery, so it doesn't charge the 12V (red light). CEL will stay illuminated for some time after IMA goes out. Even without seeing it on the dash, the car will try to charge the battery at very low "background" current levels. The pack responds pretty quickly to it and tap voltages rapidly rise to their normal operating range. Unfortunately, overnight, one or more discharge to below spec overnight.

As someone who has an HCH2 battery swap down to about 20-25 minutes, your process sounds agonizing, but whatever works for you!

 

Hey; Steve; quick question. Do you think that driving around until I get to the Dealership next week is a bad idea? Specifically, I am supposed to meet with some friends at the State Fair this weekend....60 miles one way.... But could easily skip the freak show to come if you honestly believe one is waiting for me if I attempt the round trip 120 miles???

thanks again.

Kloignon

 

Sustained driving should pose no issues provided your red 12V light is OUT. You may find the light coming on at idle, going off during cruise and then coming on at idle again. That's okay. After you've done your driving and 10 minute wait, the red 12V light likely remains out all the time... until you park it overnight.

Aside from the complications associated with power loss during a forced regeneration (two battery bars with green charging bars robbing the car of power), there likely isn't a significant risk.

Again, there is no need for a trip to the dealer. I would encourage you to get the actual codes from Autozone/parts store and send them to Falcon. With the data you are presenting, there is no way it's not the battery. If you want to investigate more on your own, once you have the seat pulled and the cover off, I can show you what to check if you have a voltmeter to give 100% confirmation it's bad.

Steve

 

Hey! Again a bit of good news. You know At the Fair there is a bacon related contest this year! So I got that going for me. I have to go to the dealership anyway for a factory recall on passenger side airbags. I wanted to have them take a look at sensors; the fan; and the actual electrical system that is involved. I took it to a local mechanic I trust. But he is unable to confirm any Hybrid related elements. His expertise is limited to gas guzzlers and such. I think I need the diagnostic only because I want to continue to NOT pay for shipping and only have to give a refundable core deposit each time I get a replacement So, I am entering the lion's den so to speak to keep me from having to defend my car to the Falcon Guys and save $200 bucks on shipping, too. As they are in NJ and I am in KS. Like I say, they are nice enough; but I am dancing around trying to keep the costs to a minimum. I am actually going to sign off now. I will probably take you up on your offer as soon as I get the next battery in! I would like to be more knowledgeable regarding the whole IMA battery situation for 2007 HCHII's. I keep reading about other folks who call the Honda Corporate offices and got positive results with replacement batteries (lower mileage, still under warranty, etc...) And I swoon to think people have beat this rap out there!! I may not have hope, but I have memories of documented triumphs! You take care, and I hope to catch up with you at a later date. Good Night.

 

Warranty replacements outside the limits are VERY rare. Without leverage, it's almost impossible (long-time customer, multiple hondas spanning generations, fleets, etc.).

I just hate to see you pay for diagnostics ($140 around here) every time you have battery issues. The code-reader at Autozone/parts store is more than enough to read the relevant "P" codes. I would be politely up Falcon's butt to let them know their second pack is inoperative as well.

Here's the way to check...

It's the orange plug attached to the battery that you have to remove/plug-in during an install:



You probe the in the pairs as numbered and record the voltage. Any cheap voltmeter set to 20V will do (or an auto-ranging one will). you do not need to unplug it. Just probe where the wire goes into the plug:



The plug is oriented 90° clockwise from the picture above. 6 and 14 are the two bottom pins in the vertically oriented plug.

Record those voltages AFTER it sits overnight and report back.

ALL of those voltages should be above 15V after a night's sit, and they should all be within 0.2V of each other.

You will likely find one or more in the 12s. Honestly, I wouldn't be surprised if they're all in the 12.4-12.7 range...

 

Steve as we know, the IMA battery is definitely going the way of the dodo. This morning I turned on the engine; and I have all the warning lights; with a full 8 bar charge showing on the screen; but no power (weak acceleration, etc.), no assist bars; no green bars nothing. I go to the Autozone, and I get a diagnostic. I show duplicate entries of P1570 then P0A7F then P1570 again followed by P0A7F again! They clear the lights; I go to drive off and every light comes back on. But now I show 2 bars of charge and again, no assist bars or recall bars. None of the lights go off after I get to my workplace, I do the manual recall as prescribed in the owners manual and get three bars of charge showing. I reread the thread above and you mention sustained driving would not be an issue as long as the 12v battery light is off. Well, Steve, it is not off at all now. What will happen if I drive around another week while I wait for a replacement battery? What can I expect?? or look for??? I need to prepare for the situation I might be creating! Thanks, I appreciate your help, a lot.