ok after reading over #16 again and again and again and again i think there is nothing i can do to get absolutely beautiful even testing numbers done for sp1 and sp2, now, without formation charging again and waiting 8-9 days again, so let me proceed to test the other sps today...

i can discharge into the 12v car batt from sp 1 [FIX TURNIGY SETTINGS FOR VOLTAGE](get messed up numbers) but record it [i'll call these values X1]
then discharge into the 12v car batt from sp 2 (get messed up numbers)but record it [i'll call these values X2]
then discharge into the sp1 [FIX TURNIGY SETTINGS FOR VOLTAGE AGAIN]from sp3(these numbers good)record it [i'll call these values X3]
then discharge into the sp2 [FIX TURNIGY SETTINGS FOR VOLTAGE AGAIN]from sp4(these numbers good)record it [i'll call these values X4]
then discharge into the sp3 from sp5(these numbers good)record it [i'll call these values X5]
then discharge into the sp4 from sp6(these numbers good)record it [i'll call these values X6]
then discharge into the sp5 from sp7(these numbers good)record it [i'll call these values X7]
then discharge into the sp6 from sp8(these numbers good)record it [i'll call these values X8]
then discharge into the sp7 from sp9(these numbers good)record it [i'll call these values X9]
then discharge into the sp8 from sp10(these numbers good)record it [i'll call these values X10]
then discharge into the sp9 from sp11(these numbers good)record it [i'll call these values X11]

probably run my battery tender to top off my car battery [get this going while im getting X3-X11 values because this takes some time] and then formation charge at this point from the car battery, sp1 and sp2 . in 8-9 days I can run a discharge off sp1 and sp2 dumping back into the car battery and record those new better updated values for X1 and X2 .

sounds right I hope? trying to wrap my head around the whole thing.

ps: the home made grid charge components have shipped from ?mouser?, so that should arrive within the next few days

Thanks

 

Initial voltages cast doubt on #2 and #6. Are you sure 10g is 8.10 and you didn't leave off a digit? If accurate, .06V means this one might be an issue.

The load test data you have is completely worthless. Not following directions means you have completely wasted your time. You need to repeat load testing following the instructions in #20 INCLUDING new INITIAL voltage readings.

 

I think you have it.

You need to record the mAh extracted and the time.

If you regeneratively discharged sp2 into sp1, sp1 was charged instead of discharged, so any susequent discharge of sp1 is invalid for comparison purposes.

We are talking two different currents and voltages. To ensure you're grasping it, on the NiMH discharge screen, it should be set to 7.0A and 12.0V. This means you will discharge at up to 7A until the subpack hits 12.0V. It will then terminate the discharge.

The regenerative discharge in the Settings screen should be set to ON, the highest Amps allowed (I don't know what it is on that unit) and 14.8V if you're discharging into a 12V battery or 17.2V if discharging into a subpack.

Please compile ALL pack, subpack and tap data you've collected thus far into a Google sheet and share it.

 

yeah 10g is 8.10 / 8.1

and i guess i can repeat the load test for our purposes doing 15 seconds instead of 30... we can't just interpret the data with this in mind? What is the end we are working towards, just picking the best? What more steps are going to be involved after this?

 

Your response indicates you are not comprehending the directions given in #20. Please refer to the following excerpt:

"Record start voltage on a separate meter and end voltage immediately prior to termination"

You failed to do that and introduced the time variable. You measured the voltage AFTER the load was terminated at random time delays. The data required is the LOADED voltage immediately prior to termination, i.e., the lowest voltage observed.

15s, 30s doesn't matter. Your voltage readings have zero diagnostic value.

The goal of this test is to confirm that the sticks have sufficiently low internal resistance to function properly in the car.

The purpose of the word "separate" is to indicate you need another meter besides the one on the load tester. It does not mean it's to be separated from the setup. To clarify, attach the load tester and your "separate" meter to the test stick simultaneously. Apply 15 second test, read loaded voltage, terminate load.

The 2 minute cool-down is important. The resistance of the coils changes with temperature. Rapid testing without cool down introduces another variable that influences the loaded voltage.

 

mmmmm yeah you nailed that one

i get it now

it will be tough to get the probe on there with the design of the load tester they sell at harbor freight you have to hold a toggle switch in the on position and when you release it the thing goes to the off position. so it takes the useage of one hand. and the voltmeter usually takes 2 hands in and of itself. like the guy from total recall, i need three hands.

ill figure it out and get the data in the spreadsheet. and figure out how to share it.

 

clamp the meter probes onto the stick with the tester clamps.