I know what you mean. It does seem a little odd, since alternators are rated in amperage capacity, although they provide volts to the battery. In the alternator's case, I think that's done via a voltage regulator (internal to the alternator these days, although I had an external one in a '70 Monte Carlo once).

I'm postulating that the DC-DC converter has already taken care of that function (indirectly), and so it provides volts directly. However, my knowledge of electrical systems (automotive in particular) is a bit limited, so it may not be feasible to do what I'm stating. Also, I'm not supplying a full circuit / pathway from DC motor to 12v, so there's a lot that's left out here at this point.

Interestingly enough, the service manual states to charge the 12v during a test by pressing the accelerator (off-load, in P or N) so that the ICE is at 3K-4K RPM - the exact same procedure that's used to charge the traction battery and raise the level in the BAT meter. So charging the traction battery *also* charges the 12v storage battery by default, and 2 of the 3 power distribution modes (called U, V, and W phases) are engaged, if I'm not mistaken.

 

I guess what was posted was how to test if the converter is still good. I don't think it has anything to do with how much current it can pass.

I think its back to the drawing board.

 

[img]../share/files/8/7/2/Accord-IMA-SystemDiagram_thumb.gif[/img]

Ok - here's the drawing...LOL (I also posted in the Share section, if this linked one appears small).

I didn't post how to check the pass / fail of the DC-DC Converter, but rather, what the nominal / maximum output values were. I did think that's what was asked for, but I'm not trying to be argumentative, either. This is a very high-level drawing, but it does show the interaction between DC IMA motor, Motor Power Inverter module, Motor Control Module, Contactor, and the switching of power by the Contactor between the IMA and the 12v batteries (via the DC-DC converter on the 12v side)


I'm curious to know this info, too, as I'm wanting to go the aftermarket route with my own car's audio. I'm stuck with the factory speakers until I can get my hands on a service manual, so I can print out the door panel removal instructions - I don't want anyone touching my car until then.

 

I thought what you posted was for a tech to diagnose if a converter is failing. I didn't mean to imply anything. All this technical stuff confuses me sometimes.