Now you sound like you're here to argue, not to listen to others' advice. So go ahead. Do what Honda tells you not to do. And throw away some good money while you're at it.

 

Nodoby's here to argue- let's keep it below a rolling boil here- this topic is just engine oil. We're talking about very slight shades of gray between folks here.

Oil change intervals are largely a matter of personal preference; so is the specific type used. No need to start yelling at one another about bad ideas or not taking advice.

FWIW, yes, any modern oil (with the ASE sunburst symbol, etc) of the porper grade certainly provides enough lubrication. Fear not. Honda and other makers choose to add something extra to provide some more margin while the initial gear teeth wear patterns are developed and cylinders/pistons set in. Emphasis on the extra part. Moly is used in many application as a lubricant in addition to or instead of oil. Nothing unusual or particularly special about it. As a matter of fact I used it this morning at my son's pinewood derby (4th of 40 cars).

Also, for Toast- the concern isn't about 'metallic shavings' which are largely urban legend for modern cars, but about ensuring the gears wear in properly (not creating matel shvings, simply setting in against one another and preferred wear surfaces mating up).
As for particulate matter left in the engine after building, there is often some silicon left over from the casting process; many times an oil analysis report will come back with elevated Si levels from the 1st one or two changes; this is expected, and moly also helps lubricate against Si abrasion- atoms vs atoms instead of atoms vs large hydrocarbon chains.

Engine killer to change it early? No. Preferred to keep it in by the OEM? Yes. Are you free to do what you choose, armed with this and other information? By all means.

Now please keep it calmed down, folks.

 

I guess ElanC and MexikEn didn't see the smiley faces or pick up on the kind nature of my posts, but if they want to write out long winded paragraphs in response and tell me what I meant by my posts, "KNOCK YOURSELVES OUT!"

 

6k here, oil is 40% now... looks like it's going to be somewhere around 9-10k

 

masgian:

Ditto. I've got 6300, and I'm actually at 30%. It looks like it will land between 9 and 10 K. Great !!!!

 

I plan to change mine when the Oil Life meter tells me to. I will follow the manual and save the money.

Up until 5 or so years ago, I always changed my Oil @ 3000 miles or so. Recently I have been doing it around 6000 miles. I firmly believe the days of having to change oil every 3000 miles are over.

If this was my dealer who told me to wait, I would respect them for it since they are usually looking to make money all the time.

 

I just got mine changed at the dealer in Escondido, CA. My car is at about 8800 miles and the oil life was 10% with an indicator "A1" (change oil, rotate tires?.. is that what "A1" means?). They said I was the first HCH-06 to come in for service at this dealership.

Anyway, I was also smelling something during accelerations, so I asked them to check the air filter. They said I needed one and were about to give the car back to me, so I asked to see the old filter. Turned out that they hadn't replaced it because they didn't have any in the shop and had to order it. I wonder if they would have told me that if I hadn't asked to see the old filter?? So, I am going back tomorrow to get the new filter. I might check the old one before I go in (first to see if it's really dirty, and maybe make a mark on the bottom of it or something, just to make sure they switch it). Now I'm also wondering if they really rotated the tires, and if they really added the right kind of oil. Maybe they didn't have the 0W-whatever oil in stock and just added the regular 10W-30. Sheesh, I hate auto servicing...

Also, when I went in, the service guy told me I should have had the oil changed at 5000 miles. He didn't seem to know about the oil life meter, or was recommending that I ignore it... I couldn't quite tell.

 

these days, oil changes at 3k is pure marketing. a good idea, for highway/urban use with good quality oil is around now is no less than 8k. I was testing my oil in a normal Civic to see when I have to change. So I probed it and the oil had to be changed eventually after 12k. I did the change at 12k but the lab said that it was still ok... god knows where that could go. Meanwhile, my mother in law changed oil three times at least on a same model...

 

I'm definately not wanting to change my oil every 3k, I just want to get the break in oil out of there (and whatever it may be carrying) and put in some good mobile one. I realize the break in oil isn't "breaking down" or anything, but I've always changed the initial break in oil out pretty soon (the initial break in doesn't take that long), plus I'm hoping for a slight mpg improvement from the mobile 1 full synthetic.

 

I waited til the oil percentage got down to 10% (8,800 miles) before taking it to the dealership to change the oil. To be honest my hch II runs better now then it did in the beginning. Before the oil change I was getting 52 mpg now with this last tank I avg. 58.4 mpg. For what its worth, I would use the oil that is recommended in the manual.