Yep I third that. Just jumped from 33 to 38!

 

I'm hoping to break 50mpg this summer. REally learned how the car operates over the winter. Last year was able to get 46mpg in November, it should not be too far off. Since then i have switched to syn oil, increased psi to 44 and am currently testing the so called tier 1 or top tier gas from shell. Also considering a more restrictive air filter to improve mpg (and decrease performance, i think)

 

Best of luck!!


On a slightly different topic, how many miles do you go between synthetic oil changes and which brand are you using right now?

--A

 

I was just considering starting a new thread on that. My dealer states that they use mobil 1 0-20 for my car. The dealer stated that I can get the oil changed every 4,500 miles, but i feel it can go a lot more between changes. I am currently calculating and testing some theories and will probably post the results later today or tomorrow.

 

Just MAKE SURE you follow the guidelines for mileage/time intervals in the manual or you may have a warranty claim problem if, God forbid, something goes wrong with the engine.

 

This is a common myth. According to the Magnuson Moss warranty act, the failure would have to be proven (by the manufacturer) to be directly related to an oil lubrication problem, and further proven to be the result of your abuse. You would practically have to drain the oil out of your engine and run it for weeks. You do NOT have to prove maintenance records are in order if the failure is not directly related to the lack thereof.

If anyone tries to tell you differently, bring them a copy of the act.

 

Let's stop some myths.

1. There are no metal filings in a modern quality automobile!!
2. Tier 1 gas is also a lot of BS, sorry. All gasoline sold must meet a standard. In a 20,000 gallon tank of gas the additive by company (e.g., the brand) is only FIVE GALLONS. I worked at a refinery.
3. There is some difference in NE winter blends of gas versus Summer. But in now way will it change things 8-10 mpg.
4. If its cold you get no EV benefit. An engine block heater would probably pay for itself in this circumstance. Terrain also matters, number of stops when coolant is to cold to allow EV mode.

BTW my 1200 Datsun Coupe, 1971, POE $1795 (no heater) and 1.152 litre (rounded up to 1200cc), 1600 lb death trap never got more than 31mpg; usually was 28-29. Things have improved quite a bit. The NAH is 3500 lbs.