I often wonder if the factory installs the oil filter tightly to prevent owners from changing their own oil. I actually was about to give up on mine.

My first oil change on the new TCH. (I do my own) I used a bottom cap with a ratchet I had. It kept slipping so I added some thin cardboard to fill any gaps then I finally got good grip.

The toyota filter from the dealer has a thin lube already on the gasket. It has a pull off clear plastic protector. I hand tightened the new filter.

Seems like it took almost 4 1/2 quarts of oil. I drove it the following day. I let it drain down for a hour. I checked the level and it was ok. I use full synthetic 0W-20 toyota oil from the dealer.

 

To generate revenue for the dealerships.

 

Hydraulic force is nothing to fool with. A little bit over and you will be ok. Way too much over and you'll simply blow-out every garter seal in the engine, front to back.

 

If you join the Toyota Service Rewards program, oil changes are only $9.99 (a bargain). Genuine parts, genuine oil, dealer can't claim oil changes weren't done, can't beat it.

The only caveat is they always want to put the "bulk" oil from the hoses in, which is 5W30. I have to make them put the 0W20 or 5W20, as the manual specifies. Every time they're clueless until I pull out the manual and show them the page. I've even got it dog-eared so I can find it quickly.

 

Toyota is the only place that will touch my Hybrid. I get the wheels rotated at the same time and they always hand wash my car and clean the inside for free. The cost with 0W20 is $50.00 The wash alone is worth $25.00 to me.

 

You don't want the oil too high, not becuse of high pressure, but because of low pressure.

If the oil pump is submurged in clean oil, it will produce pressure based on the rpm of the engine and the pressure relief valve in the pump. The pressure relief valve will keep the pressure from getting too high and damaging the seals.

now if the oil level is too high, the engine crank can hit the oil as it is spinning. When it hit the surface of the oil, it will introdce a little bit of air into the oil. Then it hits the oil again and agsin. More air is introduced into the oil. The oil level raises from the aerated oil causing more of the crank to hit it and introduce more air. Soon, the oil is more like a foam than a liquid and the oil pump has a hard time building pressure and pumping the foam and your crank bearings are starved of oil, and you then spin a rod bearing or a crank journal bearing.

So, high oil = low pressure = ruined bottom end of engine.

 

Where to start...

OK, aerated oil typically occurs at the suction tube or pick up line and can lead to pump cavitation resulting in top end damage.

Crankshaft lobes have always been designed to dip into the crankcase well and throw oil around. It keeps the journals lubed and provides some bottom-end support for the piston skirts.

Oil Pumps do not produce pressure, they only produce flow/volume.

PRV's dump back to the crankcase... and, like... if the crankcase is over-full of oil... then your crank and cam seals are the next path of least resistance.

The law of gravity has yet to be repealed... in a pump cavitation scenario, I'm looking for valve train damage first.

But, whatever.

 

Wow!
Okay, this was more of a lesson than I imagined when I asked, and I am a little confused, but let me ask a few follow up questions:

• Since I wont be doing it myself, the best place to bring it to is:
  1. Toyota Service
  2. Any of the larger chains (except Firestone)
  3. Any local gas station
• The correct quantity to tell them to add is:
  1. Under 4 quarts
  2. 4 quarts
  3. They'll know what to do
• The best oil grade to use for colder weather is?
• The best oil grade to use for warmer weather is?

 

The fill is 4.5 US qts. I believe.

winter: 0w-20 for quicker initial cold flow
warmer: 5w-20

Both grades are recommended year-round; you will likely get better mileage with the 0w.

The oil replacement oil filter should be pre-filled before installation, to ensure fast buildup.

You can undoubtedly save considerable money using "dino" 5w-20 year-round. Unless you operate in unusually frigid conditions, you would likely see little to no benefit over the long-term by using the more expensive 0w. You will likely trade in the car long before those benefits would be obvious, if they exist at all.

 

Again, where to start?

Why do they put oil scrappers on in the oil pans of high performance engines? I guess it is because they want the crank to "dip" into the oil at high rpms. No, if a crank is dipping into the oil at 5,000 RPM the oil will not be gently splashed around, it WILL introduce air into the oil.

I have not seen an engine that has the oil level intentionally high enough to actually allow the counter balances or rod ends to actually dip into the oil. That may have been a proper way of lubricating an engine in the early days (1900 - 1920s) but today's modern engines are lubricated by pressurised oil that is flowing trough the engine.

On your statement about pumps not producing pressure, you are right and wrong. They do pimarily produce flow, but in the process of producing flow, if they produce more flow than can be released by the passages they are pumping through, then they will build pressure. if they loose flow because they are pumping a compressible fluid (oil with air is compressible, oil with out air is generally not compressible) then they will not produce as much flow, and this might be less than the passages can handle, causing the pressure to drop.

I firmly stand by my statement that too much oil is bad because it can cause bearing failure due to low pressure or more properly low oil flow.

Also, I am more worried about bearing damage than valve train damage, as your valve train can survive on much less oil than the crank or rod bearings.