08hybridok--the black rubber mat you have on your rear bumper lip--is that stock for the '08 FEH or did you add that aftermarket? If the latter, what's the name of the product so I can try to hunt one down for my '06 FEH.

 

I meant to say that, sorry once pids & txd's and greek talk took over I got totaly lost

I've programmed several values from #7, all but BTM have worked, or at least given #'s that moved!

geekgal, I picked it up off eBay. I think there is a link on my picture page that you can get to from my sig. Now I'm mad because last time I looked (a month or so ago) it's now available in black (mine) and gray, Gray might blend better. But not black works, you don't notice it's not color matched to the rest, in fact I was showing off my battery the other day and shocked by the color of my carpet!

edit:
Here's a current listing. Looking at gray, I'm probably glad to have black, gray looks, too... grayish.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ESCAP...spagenameZWDVW

 

Just got my SG with version 3.15 firmware, which I assume, is the latest.

All of the XGauges I tried from Carl's list have worked so far.
Some of the "general" Ford ones such as barometric pressure do not work.

On the motor / generator speed ones, the Xgauge has a range from
0-9999 RPM. However, the Traction Motor exceeds 10,000 RPM above 77 MPH. When I tried driving faster than 77 MPH last night, the traction motor did indeed exceed 9999 RPM.

Above 9999 RPM I got hexadecimal values on my display!
What do you think Carl? Can we change the math to scale by 0.1?

Thus, the range would be 1 (x10) to 9999 (x10) or 10 to 99,990 RPM.

Also, more proof that the 40 MPH EV limit is not a motor speed issue.
The 40 MPH EV limit is a motor torque issue.
Above 40 MPH there is not enough motor torque to start the ICE.

I have had my traction motor spinning 11,000+ RPM.
I have had my generator motor spinning 9,000+ RPM.

The generator speed in EV at 40 MPH is only 6000 RPM.

Also, I have proven the "plug in" heater system includes a block heater and a HV battery heater. It does NOT include a HV battery charger.

Last night I parked with my HV battery at 34.8 % SOC.
( that was as low as I could get it with headlamps / key on )
My HV battery was 35.6'F.

After 3 hours of plug time:
HV battery SOC = 34.7%
HV battery temp= 71.6'F
Engine water temp = 104'F

 

In the RXF entry the 5th character can be used to divide by 10 or 100.

change RXF to 046285****** to divide by 10.

change RXF to 046245****** to divide by 100.

Zero in this spot divides by 1. A 2 in this spot gives an ON/OFF output.

On most xgauges you could also do this in the MTH entry, but scaled 2's complement representations will give erroneous negative values when scaling with the MTH entry. That is why I haven't posted an xgauge for Traction Battery Current. Still looking for a solution....

The barometric pressure xgauge coding on the scangauge site has an error. The "7" in the TXD should be a "0"

TXD: 07E0221127

 

Observations:

My M/E coolent pump is going bad I think. Makes lots of grinding noise that I can hear inside, and outside the vehicle. Also, I checked the coolent fill/de-gas bottle, and it had some liquid, but was also full of foam, something I've never seen before, so my M/E coolent is being agitated with air some-how.

Carl, do we know where the M/E coolent temperature reading is measured?
Mine is always very cool... very close to ambient air and does not warm up more than a couple of degrees when driving.... IE 50'F on a 45'F day.

I don't know if this means it is working OK despite the sounds, and is keeping everything cool, or if it is not working at all, and the coolent sensor never gets warm because the coolent is not circulating past it at all. The eCVT temperature is about 92'F to 94'F after 10 miles on a 45'F day. Yes, I feel it should be serviced, but I'm in small town middle America right now, and won't be in a big city with a hybrid tech until the day before Thanksgiving, and then, good luck right!

ICE Horsepower reading ( correctly! ) goes to zero during fuel cut, when the engine is run-up for compression brake.
The lowest HP I've seen when coasting in drive was 4.4 HP.
The lowest HP coasting in N is usually a few higher than in Drive.

ICE Horsepower reading also goes to zero during WOT.

I got my HPR reading up to 126 HP, then pressed a little harder on the pedal, and it went to 0.0, at a time WOT was likely.

The car goes "open loop" in fuel cut, and in WOT modes.
So this Horsepower reading may be tied to that PID somehow.

I now think catalyst "light off" temp occurs in seconds from start, not minutes. Basically, once your car says "closed loop" the CAT is hot.
This occurs in about 10 to 15 seconds in my car, from a room temperature start.

I've said for a long time that engine WATER temp is the primary condition that determines when to allow EV after a cold start. This data supports this. Takes ~5 minutes to get engine water temp over 140'F and it takes ~5 minutes to go EV from a cold start. Takes 15 seconds to get the CAT hot from a cold start!

I've only had my SG with CAT temp monitor for 2 days.
I'll let you know what I figure the minimum CAT temperature for EV is.
Perhaps, you guys can look at that one too and see if we reach concensus.

My gut says CAT temp too cold may be an issue in summer more than winter!

My SOC is working. But is always 0.2% "off".
That is, my generator will stop charging at 52.8% SOC, not 53.0%.
Also, I can drive EV down to 39.8% before engine start, not 40.0%.
With headlamps on, key on, I was able to discharge to 34.8%, not 35.0%.

So my SG is always displaying 0.2% less than the "expected value".

Carl, is this a "rounding error" or something with to few significant digits in the SG conversion math or something? Don't get me wrong, this is "close enough" and very usefull as-is. I'm just curious about the 0.2% offset.

That's about all I've noticed in 2 days and 20 miles!
-John

 

The SoC offset is probably due to the fact that as a PID it is lagging the true SoC that the FEH is using. But, if you want to add 0.2% to it, just change the last digit of MTH to 2. Your MTH would then be 007D20000002.

If you suspect your motor electronics coolant pump is going south, I would monitor the Motor and Generator Inverter temps. They are:

TXD: 07E122496F
RXF: 04628549066F
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001200010140
NAM: MiT

TXD: 07E1224971
RXF: 046285490671
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001200010140
NAM: GiT

If these go above 150F, I would get the pump fixed ASAP. If they stay relatively cool, then probably your MeCT sensor is going bad.

 

With apologies for not being exactly on topic, do any 2008 model owners have pics and/or comments regarding best location for the SG II?

Thanks,
John Dixson

 

Carl, what do you mean by "lagging"?

In the traditional sense, that would mean it would lag behind in both ascending, and descending conditions. It doesn't work that way, which looks like an offset issue.

I think it is very cool we have the ability to make these fine adjustments.
However, I wish to only adjust things if it is the SG fault.

What are the chances my car really runs EV to 39.8% vs 40.0?

If it were "lagging" would that not mean ICE would start at 40.2%???
Thanks.

 

By lagging I do mean lagging the internal calculation. Even on the fast SG rate several internal SoCs have traversed the BUS inbetween SG requests.
Why that affects both directions I don't know. I have had the SoC xgauge for about 3 months, and before the harness recall, The 40%, 42% and 53% were virtually dead-on. Now, they can be off although not a constant offset like you're seeing. I do know that after the TBCM re-programming, there is substantially more SoC consumption when turning the ICE on. I have seen the SoC drop as much as .7% when the ICE turns on, whereas before it was more like .1 or .2%. And overall, the harness work has cost me about 4 to 5% in FE.

 

After I received my newest Scangauge II unit, I was actually monitoring the CAT temp for several days. I noticed the CAT temperature could drop below 1000 degrees while the vehicle was in electric mode. However, it did not do this on a regular basis for the three days I monitored CAT temperature. I no longer monitor the CAT temperature (direct visual display) on the scan gauage unit because its temperature--as John stated--would rise rapidly but your vehicle didn't get into electric mode with this rise in temperature. I have been using the water temperature as one of direct visual displays in my second scan gauge unit. It takes the water temperature longer to to increase than the CAT temperature. The air intake values change rapidly during electric mode and I do not use them to monitor outside (ambient) air temperature. I need to finish the installation of my Gentex mirror for this.