Soldier on. It looks good now. Hopefully the P0A1F is resolved.

 

Nope. Not the BCM, unless this one is also a dud. I have a third one....
What's the next thing I should try?
===PCM DTC P0A1F:00-AF===
Code: P0A1F - Battery Energy Control Module A Performance

Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

===END PCM DTC P0A1F:00-AF===

===PCM DTC P2450:00-64===
Code: P2450 - EVAP System Switching Valve A Perfomance/Stuck Open

Status:
- DTC Maturing - Intermittent at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
- Test not complete

Module: Powertrain Control Module

===END PCM DTC P2450:00-64===

===OBDII DTC P0A1F-C===
Code: P0A1F - Battery Energy Control Module A Performance

Status:
- Confirmed - malfunction is confirmed

Module: On Board Diagnostic II

===END OBDII DTC P0A1F-C===

===BCM DTC P0A1F-60===
Code: P0A1F - Battery Energy Control Module

Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Battery Control Module

===END BCM DTC P0A1F-60===

===HVAC DTC B12A5-60===
Code: B12A5 - Mode Door Actuator, Feedback Circuit Open or Shorted to Battery Voltage

Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning

===END HVAC DTC B12A5-60===

===HVAC DTC B12A6-20===
Code: B12A6 - Mode Door Actuator, Feedback Circuit Open or Shorted to Battery Voltage

Status:
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning

===END HVAC DTC B12A6-20===

 

P0A1F_31 battery module voltage deviation fault present is finally coupled with a DEL_MOD_V difference of 0.31 with a slight .09A charging current.

These individually do not necessarily trigger a concern, but both may possibly indicate an individual cell failure or weakness.

I recommend you start the vehicle, place it in "N" and load the battery up with anything electrical you can... lights, rear defogger, blower with no A/C or front defrost enabled.

Record and WATCH the DEL_MOD_V number. If this number increases as SoC decreases, that's a strong indication of a failing cell.

 

I have established that most likely this is a cell failure. I am having some problems with disassembly. How do you remove the bolt pictured? My sockets won't fit in the hole, and the needle nose pliers won't fit and turn. I watched three disassemble videos and they all have the phillpis screws in the holes. I have all phillpis but three are socket...

Picture of the socket. I have three like this, but all the others were phillips.

10mm will not fit. It gets stuck on the soldered connection . Even if I broke the soldered connection, all I will do is free the circuit board, not the plastic top shelf.

 

Did you see an increasing DEL_MOD_V?

Something like these if you can find them?

https://www.grainger.com/product/1LNX5

IMHO, even with a lot of experience building batteries, I would personally find a salvage yard unit of ~100K miles from a mild climate, charge if needed and install. I just don't see the pay off with rebuilding such a complex pack. You may get out of it cheaply, and it may be fine. I just don't have the patience for that.

 

That set didn't fit. NOTHING FITS!!! How the hell did they get these bolts in there!? I can't tap it out,the bolt is to hard. I stripped it useing needle nose pliers in a pathetic attempt to turn it. We have given up and are throwing in the towel. We called 23 scrap yards in a 3 hour radius. Only one has batteries, they strip them from the vehicle and stack them. So there is no way of telling how many miles were on each of the batteries.
So here I am. I have spent over $500 on this so far and over 40 hours. I dont care anymore. I am just going to buy a refurbished battery and call it a day. I found a guy selling one for $2500. If anyone else can point me in the direction of an honest seller please do. I am at point f**k it and will throw money at them.

 

dorman remanufatures that battery - up to 09.
517-013 But darn has the price ever gone up (in the last few months).
best i saw was on amazon at 4903 and free shipping.
but i think that oreilly sell that and the price is less (but perhaps has
gone up too since i last checked).
last i checked it was 3200 at oreilly,
but their web site does not bring it up.
dont know if you are around an oreilly (they are not in every state);
i dont think there would be shipping charges at oreilly either.
just found greentec - they got one at 1995 (least cost and of course the warranty is 12 months at that price)
they show to be in 20 cities in the US

 

Sorry for resurrecting this old thread but an obscure search of a Sanyo part number brought me to this thread! I have acquired this EV battery from a friend and I have had no luck getting more info on it!. I saw the photos and recognized this extremely heavy monster and figured I would inquire. I will read thru the thread and see if it gives me more info, but this is what I have guessed at so far: (I am a complete newbie when it comes to EV Batteries so keep that in mind, but quickly see this becoming a hobby) Heavy as hell 52v is what I am reading as is, lifepo4, green in color which looks like 5 32650's in series glued together. the voltage per 5 pack is approx 2.7v 26 total.





Thanks


Larrrrry

 

Sanyo "D" cells, not 32650. NiMH, 1.2V nominal.

They are welded.

If you're looking for LFP, you're in for disappointment. These cells CAN'T be placed in parallel due to their chemistry.

There is very little useful you can do with these.

 

Where did you locate a new BCM? Thank you.