Installed the Hidden Hitch from etrailer in about 45 minutes, just a little file work to enlarge the holes to fit the washers and bolt heads through. The lighting kit was a direct plug-in with no wires run to the battery.

No problems with electrics. The flashers blink faster when the trailer is plugged in, but I have had no problems with either blinkers or brake lights or electronics on the MMH.

 

Just curious as I am still on the fence if I want to add to my MMH (Our Pilot has a hitch), where does the hitch wiring harness come out of the car (weather you use the repeater or not)?

And I guess if I do add this, I probally need to get the prop receiver cover as this would be on a Mercury Mariner!

 

That is pretty much up to you... the kits just have a 4 wire plug connector and a fair amount of wire attached. Most of the taps go into the taillights. you have to find a place to mount the converter box/boxes, they suggest on the frame rail I think so the wire is on the outside of the car and you just route it under your car to where you want it. I actually put mine up in the left side behind the panels near the AC unit and left the wire in the cargo compartment for now. When I use it I'll route it out through the liftgate or tailgate but I don't tow much.

 

The wiring plugs directly into the taillights on each side. The wires feed under the car. I used a couple of wire ties (provided) to attach the wires under the rear bumper. It came with a neat cover for the 4 prong connector, which I just tucked up around the wire harness, so nothing hangs down.

I bought a 2x2 rubber hitch plug at Menard's or Tractor Supply and that really dresses up the installation.

I have used a 5 x 8 trailer several times to haul compost, firewood, etc. Only short trips, but no problem hauling it with the hybrid and ecvt.

 

No boxes, simple wiring, took about 10 minutes to unscrew taillights, plug in, the connectors, and screw taillights back in.

Works great!

 

Yeah... that actually makes sense as I understand things. 4-wire connections use combined taillight/turnsignals. The Mariners also use a combined taillight/turnsignal so you can do that with straight wiring... as long as the trailer doesn't pull enough current to trigger the warning for a bulb being out.

The Escapes have separate turn signals from their taillights so some logic has to be done to recombine the signals for a 4-wire trailer connection, hence the box.

 

At the risk of revealing my ignorance, isn't a Class 3 trailer overkill for the Hybrids? Aren't they only rated to tow something like 1000 lbs?

 

I am not certain but I believe getting a Class III gets you the 2 inch receiver but a class I or II would only get you a 1.25 inch.

And there's more "stuff" that fits a 2-inch vs 1.25

 

That's right, a class III lets you easily insert a rack or bike carrier. I have towed a 5 by 8 trailer loaded with firewood for a few miles with no problems. There has been lots of discussions about the "pulling power" of the hybrid engine/motor/transmission and the rating of only 1000 lbs.
A regular Mariner can pull up to 3500 lbs, so the general feeling is that suspension and frame is adequate. I am just cautious about pulling heavy loads for long distances and overworking the ecvt. I have limited experience with the hybrid, but have pulled many heavy loads with a small Ford f-100 pick-up with a stick shift, 6 cyllinder, with no detrimental effects (other than a little extra wear slipping the clutch on take-off).
The hitch mounts easily, looks good, and is easy to use for pullingalmost anything you want for short distances. I would not attempt pulling a travel trailer or car trailer for lots of miles with it, but across town would probably cause no problems.

 

I put on the Class III hitch strictly for the bike carrier, but since then I've been thinking. The small "teardrop" travel trailers come in at 800 to 900 lbs. That seems like an ideal travel rig for a FEH.