We bought this vehicle from a mechanic in Jax over 5 years ago now. For the first two years, the vehicle ran great, but the ignition switch always gave us problems, you had to jiggle it for a connection. In early 2019, it finally gave out and I bought a brand new ignition switch from the ford dealership and hired a mechanic locally to install/swap it out for me. Since then, the vehicle has been great.
Until last week...
Out of the blue, we went to go out and the vehicle just wouldn't start. All the lights came on, dash, everything seemed to work as it should, only when I turn the key, nothing happens. (This was the first time we had let it sit in our garage for 11 days, and it is pushing 11yrs old & 240k)
I started reading forums, and since we moved to another side of the state, I can't just call the previous mechanic. I don't even have his number anymore. (wish I did though)
I've triple checked the 12V battery and even trickle charged it overnight. It seems to have plenty of juice. I noticed that it was displaying a "Stop Safely Now" and the wrench symbol. I took out my Car Scanner and copied codes (See end of Post). I removed the pos and neg from the 12V and connected them for 10min. to reset the computer. That didn't solve it. Still wouldn't start
Then, I thought, I'd check the fuses. That is when I noticed some missing fuses.
Then, I started to recall the possibility that when the mechanic had swapped out the previous ignition switch, he may have handed me some fuses and said he had to get around the security features. But, tbh, I just can't recall if that is accurate. So, I'm not sure if there is a possibility that its a security issue that won't allow it to start.
Then, I began reading on forums about the HV battery and how if it got too low of a charge, it won't start the car. It could be this, the vehicle had been kept all summer in our garage at 90+ degrees and then this was the first week it dropped down to low 40's in SWFL. So, maybe the HV battery got too low. But, before I go into the whole take the battery out and charge it process, I want to make sure I eliminate as many other possibilities because charging that HV battery looks like a lot of work for someone like me.
Lastly, could there be a separate issue here? For example, could it be something other than the batteries, the ignition switch and the security features causing this not to start like a device or component between the ignition switch and the HV battery that has failed such as a DC converter or something? It just seems that when it used to start, the hybrid would always kick on a fan in the back of the vehicle that would run, and when I go to start it now, it makes a minor humming noise. As if, something is failing to engage the HV battery entirely.
Besides the no start, we really enjoy the vehicle, its a nice vehicle to have, its well kept and practical. But, at this point, I see what it could cost to diagnose or fix or swap the HV battery and I'm not sure I'm ready to go down that costly rabbit whole when I can purchase another 09 Escape (non-hybrid) for less than $4k right now. (of course, those probably will have issues as well but js) at least its parked in our garage and this didn't happen somewhere else.
I'll admit, I've been ignoring the EGR P0400 code for a while now, that's on me, but I didn't think that would play any role in causing it not to start?
Any advice, input, or guidance is entirely appreciated.
Car Scanner ELM OBD2 DTC report Selected brand: Ford VIN: 1FMCU49309KA70035
============1============== P0130 Raw code: 0130 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Confirmed OBDII: Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1 - circuit malfunction Ford: Heated O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
============2============== P0400 Raw code: 0400 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Confirmed OBDII: Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system - flow malfunction Ford: EGR Flow Malfunction
============3============== P2418 Raw code: 2418 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Confirmed OBDII: Evaporative emission (EVAP) switching valve - open circuit
============4============== P2450 Raw code: 2450 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Confirmed OBDII: Evaporative emission (EVAP) switching valve - performance problem or valve stuck open
============5============== P0133 Raw code: 0133 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Pending OBDII: Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1 - slow response Ford: Heated O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
============6============== P0130(00) Raw code: 013000 ECU: Engine control unit[Archive (inactive)] Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle OBDII: Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1 - circuit malfunction Ford: Heated O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
============7============== P0400(00) Raw code: 040000 ECU: Engine control unit[Archive (inactive)] Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle OBDII: Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system - flow malfunction Ford: EGR Flow Malfunction
============8============== P0A7C(00) Raw code: 0A7C00 ECU: Engine control unit[Archive (inactive)] Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear OBDII: Voltage converter - over-temperature condition
============9============== P1A10(00) Raw code: 1A1000 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear Ford: HYBRID POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE - BATTERY DISABLED
============10============== P2418(00) Raw code: 241800 ECU: Engine control unit[Archive (inactive)] Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear OBDII: Evaporative emission (EVAP) switching valve - open circuit
============11============== P2450(00) Raw code: 245000 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle, Warning indicator requested OBDII: Evaporative emission (EVAP) switching valve - performance problem or valve stuck open
============12============== P0133(00) Raw code: 013300 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Pending, Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle OBDII: Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1 - slow response Ford: Heated O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
============13============== P1000(00) Raw code: 100000 ECU: Engine control unit[Archive (inactive)] Status: Test failed since last DTC clear OBDII: OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete Ford: Check of all OBDII Systems Not Complete Ford Manufacturer Codes; OBD-II Monitor Testing Incomplete
Today, I used my OBD reader and cleared all the codes. Then, I removed the negative from the 12V for 10 minutes to attempt to reset the pcm. Then, I reconnected the Negative and attempted to start the vehicle hoping it had cleared all the codes. The vehicle didn't start.
So, I checked the OBD codes again, below is the codes I see now. It still shows that "Stop Safely Now" idk what to do at this point.
Ok, I bought Forscan lite and then decided to try the Pro. I was able to connect the pro to the OBD reader but after that couldn't connect the Lite version to the reader. Here are the screen shots of every option in the app. I couldn't find anything that read BCM
Tonight, I'm trickle charging the 12V again, It seems all the on and off and sitting all week, the battery was getting low again. So, it should be fully juiced up and full in the morning.
Hope this helps, and thanks,
Last edited by 09FordEscapeHybrid; 12-11-2021 at 09:48 AM.
I have no idea what I'm looking at. I have only the free PC version, and it's all I've ever used.
Where did you get the output in your first post?
Its from the only other free app that I originally used called carscanner on Android. The first was an email I had sent to myself than copy and pasted it on PC/web browser. The second time, instead of sending an email and copy/pasting it, I simply took a screenshot from the same app and used my phone to share it. That is that image with the 3 codes with the black background. They were both from the same app.
Forscan on Google Play cost $5.99 and Pro was an extra $2.99, hope I haven't paid for an app that gave all the same info as my original free app,
I didn't realize there was a PC version, you might consider clarifying that next time you make a suggestion before someone else pays for an app you're not familiar with.
After rereading the above posts, I see where there was confusion, ok, well I guess I have a useful app now. I'll see if I can get the PC version and a copy of the codes but at the end of the day I'd think it'd all be the same information.
The first post and the screenshot in the Second or third post with the black background are from the same app. It's call carscanner app on Google Play and I used my Android. The only difference was that the first was an email version or a "print" version of the read out, whereas the second was simply a shared screenshot. Same app though
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12-04-2021, 02:02 AM
2009 Ford Escape Hybrid - Won't Start
