2008 GMC Yukon Hybrid has been giving me problems for a few years now. After coming to a stop, if I press gas pedal to proceed, the car would shake as if there was a transmission problem to the point that I was driving on M4 most of the time to avoid shaking. But lately I began to have problems with starting the car. I replaced 12V battery. But a few days ago car started dying on me for no reason to the point that I could not start it. It would start after a few minutes.
I checked the codes and listed them below:
Confirmed:
P0bbd (ECU 7e9) Hybrid battery pack voltage variation limit exceeded
P0b3d (ECU 7e9) hybrid battery voltage sensor A circuit low
P0ac4 (ECU 7e8) hybrid power train control module MIL activation requested
Pending:
P0bbd (ECU 7e9) Hybrid battery pack voltage variation limit exceeded
P0b3d (ECU 7e9) hybrid battery voltage sensor A circuit low
P0ac4 (ECU 7e8) hybrid power train control module MIL activation requested
p0b3c (ECU 7e9) hybrid battery voltage sensor A limit range / performance


Searching codes on the internet brought me here.
I did read S Keith post on how to check hybrid battery. Below are my results.

Torque Pro results of Hybrid Battery as tested on 2020-04-28.
Hybrid battery SOC was above 60% to begin with.
I took my truck around the block a few times to get SOC over 70%. I parked car in my driveway. Put it in Neutral.
Test was done while 2008 GMC Yukon Hybrid was in Neutral; AC, defroster and headlights were ON for the duration of the test.
I was trying to get the SOC under 40% but to my surprise even though at the beginning of the test the SOC was dropping, later on it started going up. When it went over 70% again I stopped the test.

Here are 3 graphs showing the results.

Looks like the only outlier Voltage-wise is Battery Block #1. It behaves in an unusual way:
Either it presents Voltage consistently higher than the rest of Battery Blocks #2 - #20 or it drops to 0 Volts. Very rarely Block #1 also registers a small voltage different than 0 Volts.
What are your thoughts?
I appreciate your help.
Thank you.

 

Delete the file. You've included your GPS data.

 

The SoC was going up because the car was charging. Your battery is in such a horrifying state, it started charging after about 60 seconds at 68.6% SoC. Positive current is DIScharging, and negative current is charging. The current values aren't accurate, but the sign does properly indicate charging or discharging.

The attached plot shows your 20 block voltages and the difference between the maximum and minimum of the 20 (dV). The red line is drawn in to represent the max permissible dV.

Block 1 is the only block behaving "normally." The others are behaving as though they have almost no capacity left, and they're spanning about half the total difference between high and low. This is near 100% confirmation of widespread devastation throughout the battery.

I've attached the spreadsheet with the chart. The magenta "dV" line should ALWAYS be below the red dashed line at the bottom of the chart. This line should never be above 0.3V, and a truly healthy battery will be below 0.2V. At NO time is yours ever under 0.3V

I didn't see any data oddities in those 60 seconds. There is a REMOTE possibility that corroded bus bars/sensor wires are contributing to this; however, that's ONLY relevant to the 0V readings (P0b3d and p0b3c codes). If you live in a coastal area and routinely expose the vehicle to high humidity and/or salt laden air, then that definitely causes corrosion.

IMHO, you need to replace the battery or replace all 40 modules. Period.

 

S Keith,
Thank you very much for looking at my battery pack. Following your recommendation, I have just ordered 40 modules.
1. Could you advise me how to check the status of them once they arrive?
I did read your post somewhere here, that below 2000mAH module is considered a bad one.
2. Could you recommend a charger and settings?
I found two possible options:
SKYRC PROFESSIONAL BALANCE CHARGER DISCHARGER QUATTRO B6 4X80 320W.
or
HOTA Thunder 0620 300W 20A DC Balance Charger Discharger For LiPo NiCd PB Battery
Would any of them work for this purpose?
4. Also, from what I understand after removing of the orange safety plug from the battery to disassemble it, the circuit of the battery is open to prevent electric shock and removing Bus Bar nuts one by one should not give you electric shock.

Once again, THANK YOU.
Regards
Mirek

 

"ordered 40 modules" - this was likely a mistake. I would cancel the order immediately unless you have ordered from a reputable source.

 

Yes. This person is selling modules and claims that they are cycled and checked for good capacity . He has a lot of good reviews. I have 30 days to return it. This is why I would like to check them before putting them in my truck.

 

Link source

 

https://www.ebay.com/i/333435229224?...EaAhiHEALw_wcB

 

My advice is unchanged. You're trying to cheap out on this. Good luck.

 

I agree with S Keith. I recommend you cancel the order immediately. If that is too late then return the battery modules (which probably wont be cheap from NY to CA) and don't waste your time testing them.
You don't have equipment to test the modules you are purchasing. I tested the 40 old modules of my battery pack and it was extremely time consuming.
The seller does not know what they are even selling. They appear to sell 40 modules, but they say they are selling "40 pack of cells". A module is 6 cells in series for a total of 7.2V.
Either buy a new pack, or rebuild your pack with known good modules from a low mileage donor car. I bought two 2016 Prius C battery packs (20 modules each) that had less than 20K miles on them from auto dismantlers and put them together. Should provide almost the life of what a new battery pack would, but at a fraction of the cost. For me it ended up costing approximately 1/2 of what a new battery would cost.