Hi Keith,

Guys at Greentec installed a DC inverter & control module & DC converter. Not sure if they swapped the AC control unit as well.

Anyway

The outcome is favorable !!!

Fault code p0a3f, has disappeared

The only fault code I currently have is this , sre below :


I already picked up the sensor at advance Auto parts they told me it was the radiator sensor that was faulty so I'm going to give it a try tomorrow cost 20 bucks

Apparently there are two sensors one behind the engine.

Because I get a good reading in the car when the car is cold and when it warms up it goes a little towards halfway they believe the guys at advance Auto parts that it is the sensor by the radiator so going off that logic fault code says sensor 2 so we will see.

I do suspect because I can only assume that the battery pack inside the car is OEM based on the Carfax it has never received a battery pack from Honda and not knowing anything about the previous owners if they put in a rebuilt or a new battery pack in the past I have to assume that the batteries are bad at this point.

I have not been driving the car, so it will throw a ima code battery deterioration i would think..

so I'll keep you posted.

The car has a smooth left turn easy to turn into however for the right turn it's a little bit harder more resistance if you will not significant so I do have to address that I wonder what that could be

I am officially getting plates and registering at DMV tomorrow

What a series turns of event.
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If it's this:

https://www.greentecauto.com/hybrid-...civic-inverter

That's the entire power control unit (PCU). It includes the MCM, so they replaced the MCM.

#2 confirmed.

 

Hi Keith,

Yes thats the part.

As for the IMA battery itself .

I only drove the car about 5 minutes after the fix/installation

The IMA was charging I had battery bars and in a few instances I got assist.

If the battery was bad would I have gotten the IMA light to come on right away

I'm going to drive the car tomorrow more but I just like advise / experience on this.

 

With a faulty MCM, the IMA battery wasn't getting charged. The car requires an evaluation period to assess the health of the IMA battery. Lack of an IMA light does not indicate a healthy battery. Unfortunately, the 2012 patch made the BCM substantially more tolerant of battery deterioration triggering recalibrations.

Negative recal:

(steady march down to 2 bars @ 1 bar/second)

Positive recal:

(steady march to full @ 1 bar/second)

Either are signs of an imbalanced and failing battery. Both present are worse.

The car can limp along like this for months performing especially poorly during forced charging when it's at 2 bars and getting pretty bad mileage - low to mid 30s at best.

 

Hi keith ,

Im just not going to deal with this .

As original plan to get new battery pack.

 

You seem to think that the replacements will be better than your existing pack. The Sanyo made cells in the HCH2 are superior to anything available today. Replacing with cheap Chinese **** might not be in your best interest.

If your pack is healthy, why replace it? I was giving you the things to watch for. If the car lived in a mild climate, and by the level of rust in the engine compartment, I would think that's the case, and it wasn't damaged from the neglect, it might have many tens of thousands of miles left in it.

 

Hi Keith ,

I am going to drive the car more after i get he plates ( getting ready to go to DMV right now )

I know the OEM batteries were made by Panasonic & were rated at 10 years life or close to that ...

I have no history as to previous owners & will just have to wait , for the acclamation period with new computers charging the IMA battery & how it will respond.

Just to clarify , I am not interested in dissembling the pack & discahrching every single stick etc.

so if i am experiencing above issues , for months end without IMA code . I'll just pull the trigger and get some new china sticks .
They have 1000,000 miles warranty 3 years. or i may just get new battery pack from greentec 3 yr. warranty 100,000 miles too.

 

Panasonic did not yet own Sanyo at the time. Prior models were made by Panasonic, but the HCH2 cells were made by Sanyo.

I wouldn't encourage you to attempt reconditioning. I would encourage you to drive on the existing battery pack until you get a P0A7F or the recalibrations impact performance and mileage. My last one would a single calibration at the beginning of the first drive of the day and would perform fine for the remainder of the day/drives. After about 6 months, they increased in frequency to the point that performance/mileage were impacted substantially.

Chinese warranties don't mean a **** thing unless you're a builder and have some sway over them due to your monthly purchase volume. Furthermore, it's the one-sy two-sy orders that they unload their low end stuff. If you actually have problems, they will first blame the BCM. If you manage to convince them otherwise, then they will require you to return the offending subpack. Shipping TO China is dramatically more expensive than purchasing/shipping from China, i.e., it would cost you more to return it than you would spend on a new one. Their grasp of English will vary as it suits them.

If you find you need to replace the pack, it's best to go with a U.S. based vendor that takes on the liability.

 

Hi Keith ,

You know i needed your take on china direct battery pack orders.

​​​​​​I am def gling to drive the car to find out the condition of the battery pack.

Or IMA light neg regens or positive regens etc.

I would like to know there is a way to find out what software the new hardware is running .. the MCM ?

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I'm not up to speed on the programming.

To my knowledge, only a professional grade tool can read/write the MCM/BCM programming. Basically, if it works, it's fine.