2004 Honda Civic hybrid
#1
10-09-2019, 08:56 PM
2004 Honda Civic hybrid
Automatic. 140k miles.
Picked the car up from an auction.
The ima, battery, and engine lights are on. There’s no assist / charge lights over near the ima.
Revving at 3500 rpm doesn’t boost it into working either. Shutting car off doesn’t reset it either.
The electronic battery was replaced in 2019. The 12v was bad. Replaced that but still can’t get the 3 lights to go out.
The switch under the seat is in the on position.
Picked the car up from an auction.
The ima, battery, and engine lights are on. There’s no assist / charge lights over near the ima.
Revving at 3500 rpm doesn’t boost it into working either. Shutting car off doesn’t reset it either.
The electronic battery was replaced in 2019. The 12v was bad. Replaced that but still can’t get the 3 lights to go out.
The switch under the seat is in the on position.
#3
10-10-2019, 11:52 AM
Re: 2004 Honda Civic hybrid
I had gotten a new 12v and it fired right up and stayed running.
but now it’s like it’s drained the 12v. It was clicking a bunch, so I took the terminals off, put them back up there, and it started. Turned it off and went to start it back up and it did the clicking again.
Which fuses exactly? All the fuses appeared to be good. The 80a fuse that you have to take 2 screws out to take it out, could it be that?
but now it’s like it’s drained the 12v. It was clicking a bunch, so I took the terminals off, put them back up there, and it started. Turned it off and went to start it back up and it did the clicking again.
Which fuses exactly? All the fuses appeared to be good. The 80a fuse that you have to take 2 screws out to take it out, could it be that?
#5
08-01-2022, 01:42 PM
Re: 2004 Honda Civic hybrid
Any thing further of this?
I am having a similar issue.
New battery pack.
No lights after reset, drive it and I hear a click then all bad lights. IMA, cel, red battery.
The battery charge light disappears, the charging and assist lights go blank too.
P1600 and p1586
Reset and it goes away until click and same thing.
I am having a similar issue.
New battery pack.
No lights after reset, drive it and I hear a click then all bad lights. IMA, cel, red battery.
The battery charge light disappears, the charging and assist lights go blank too.
P1600 and p1586
Reset and it goes away until click and same thing.
#6
08-01-2022, 02:04 PM
Re: 2004 Honda Civic hybrid
P1586: Motor Power Inverter (MPI) Module Current Signal/Battery Current Signal Circuit Problem
Potential causes after following an 18 step diagnostic process:
Shorted wire between MCM and ground.
Open circuit between MCM and battery current module sensor
IMA Battery (only if MCM B7 short to ground is traced to the IMA battery)
MPI module current sensor
DC-DC converter
MCM
Diagnostics call for component substitution with known good:
MCM
MPI sensor
DC-DC converter
Potential causes after following an 18 step diagnostic process:
Shorted wire between MCM and ground.
Open circuit between MCM and battery current module sensor
IMA Battery (only if MCM B7 short to ground is traced to the IMA battery)
MPI module current sensor
DC-DC converter
MCM
Diagnostics call for component substitution with known good:
MCM
MPI sensor
DC-DC converter
#7
11-22-2022, 08:16 AM
Re: 2004 Honda Civic hybrid
Several years ago, I bought a 2004 HCH1. I was told that it wouldn't charge the IMA battery and the 12v battery had been replaced several times because they were dying.
The issue is that in these cars the 12v battery is charged via a DC-DC converter from the high voltage IMA battery. If the IMA battery is not charged enough (for instance because it is old and has been sitting for a long time) the controller will not allow the 12v battery to be charged. So if you charge your 12v battery and then run/drive the car, the electronics and the spark plugs just run down the 12v battery completely until the car dies. Do that a few times and/or let the 12v sit fully discharged and pretty soon it wont hold a charge at all. The previous owner had been sitting in her car and idling it but not really driving it much (long story) so she never got the IMA charged up and she was just repeatedly killing 12v batteries.
I brought three 12v batteries with me when I picked up the car. On the drive home (~45 minutes) I would get about 15-20 minutes until I had to change the 12v for a fresh one. A little way into the 3rd battery, the engine shut down when I pulled up to a stop light. This was actually a good thing! It meant that the IMA batt had finally charged up enough that the computer would allow the auto-stop feature to engage. The engine automatically started back up when I put it back in gear and lifted my foot off the brake. (I have a manual trans but the CVT version works the same.) After that, I had no issues with the 12v batteries dying. My IMA light is on because the battery is original and not in good health but it still functions decently. It provides assist when it should. The mileage is not what it could be but still better than the gasoline equivalent.
The moral of the story? If the high idle won't charge your IMA, you might want to try my method. You'd probably need to at least borrow one more 12v battery and bring it with you. Stay close to home and drive it till it dies then swap the batteries, head back home and recharge the first. Repeat until your IMA is charged enough to keep your 12v charged in the car. In my experience, driving and regenerative braking do a much better job of charging the battery than the high idle procedure.
For a full leveling charge that might help restore some of the IMA's health you would need a grid charger, but that's a whole other ball of wax.
S. Keith is an expert on these cars. He has helped me in the past and I trust everything he says. Just offering a potential solution from my experience that might be simpler than taking apart the car and looking for faults.
The issue is that in these cars the 12v battery is charged via a DC-DC converter from the high voltage IMA battery. If the IMA battery is not charged enough (for instance because it is old and has been sitting for a long time) the controller will not allow the 12v battery to be charged. So if you charge your 12v battery and then run/drive the car, the electronics and the spark plugs just run down the 12v battery completely until the car dies. Do that a few times and/or let the 12v sit fully discharged and pretty soon it wont hold a charge at all. The previous owner had been sitting in her car and idling it but not really driving it much (long story) so she never got the IMA charged up and she was just repeatedly killing 12v batteries.
I brought three 12v batteries with me when I picked up the car. On the drive home (~45 minutes) I would get about 15-20 minutes until I had to change the 12v for a fresh one. A little way into the 3rd battery, the engine shut down when I pulled up to a stop light. This was actually a good thing! It meant that the IMA batt had finally charged up enough that the computer would allow the auto-stop feature to engage. The engine automatically started back up when I put it back in gear and lifted my foot off the brake. (I have a manual trans but the CVT version works the same.) After that, I had no issues with the 12v batteries dying. My IMA light is on because the battery is original and not in good health but it still functions decently. It provides assist when it should. The mileage is not what it could be but still better than the gasoline equivalent.
The moral of the story? If the high idle won't charge your IMA, you might want to try my method. You'd probably need to at least borrow one more 12v battery and bring it with you. Stay close to home and drive it till it dies then swap the batteries, head back home and recharge the first. Repeat until your IMA is charged enough to keep your 12v charged in the car. In my experience, driving and regenerative braking do a much better job of charging the battery than the high idle procedure.
For a full leveling charge that might help restore some of the IMA's health you would need a grid charger, but that's a whole other ball of wax.
S. Keith is an expert on these cars. He has helped me in the past and I trust everything he says. Just offering a potential solution from my experience that might be simpler than taking apart the car and looking for faults.
#8
11-22-2022, 09:34 AM
Re: 2004 Honda Civic hybrid
Several years ago, I bought a 2004 HCH1. I was told that it wouldn't charge the IMA battery and the 12v battery had been replaced several times because they were dying.
The issue is that in these cars the 12v battery is charged via a DC-DC converter from the high voltage IMA battery. If the IMA battery is not charged enough (for instance because it is old and has been sitting for a long time) the controller will not allow the 12v battery to be charged. So if you charge your 12v battery and then run/drive the car, the electronics and the spark plugs just run down the 12v battery completely until the car dies. Do that a few times and/or let the 12v sit fully discharged and pretty soon it wont hold a charge at all. The previous owner had been sitting in her car and idling it but not really driving it much (long story) so she never got the IMA charged up and she was just repeatedly killing 12v batteries.
I brought three 12v batteries with me when I picked up the car. On the drive home (~45 minutes) I would get about 15-20 minutes until I had to change the 12v for a fresh one. A little way into the 3rd battery, the engine shut down when I pulled up to a stop light. This was actually a good thing! It meant that the IMA batt had finally charged up enough that the computer would allow the auto-stop feature to engage. The engine automatically started back up when I put it back in gear and lifted my foot off the brake. (I have a manual trans but the CVT version works the same.) After that, I had no issues with the 12v batteries dying. My IMA light is on because the battery is original and not in good health but it still functions decently. It provides assist when it should. The mileage is not what it could be but still better than the gasoline equivalent.
The moral of the story? If the high idle won't charge your IMA, you might want to try my method. You'd probably need to at least borrow one more 12v battery and bring it with you. Stay close to home and drive it till it dies then swap the batteries, head back home and recharge the first. Repeat until your IMA is charged enough to keep your 12v charged in the car. In my experience, driving and regenerative braking do a much better job of charging the battery than the high idle procedure.
For a full leveling charge that might help restore some of the IMA's health you would need a grid charger, but that's a whole other ball of wax.
S. Keith is an expert on these cars. He has helped me in the past and I trust everything he says. Just offering a potential solution from my experience that might be simpler than taking apart the car and looking for faults.
The issue is that in these cars the 12v battery is charged via a DC-DC converter from the high voltage IMA battery. If the IMA battery is not charged enough (for instance because it is old and has been sitting for a long time) the controller will not allow the 12v battery to be charged. So if you charge your 12v battery and then run/drive the car, the electronics and the spark plugs just run down the 12v battery completely until the car dies. Do that a few times and/or let the 12v sit fully discharged and pretty soon it wont hold a charge at all. The previous owner had been sitting in her car and idling it but not really driving it much (long story) so she never got the IMA charged up and she was just repeatedly killing 12v batteries.
I brought three 12v batteries with me when I picked up the car. On the drive home (~45 minutes) I would get about 15-20 minutes until I had to change the 12v for a fresh one. A little way into the 3rd battery, the engine shut down when I pulled up to a stop light. This was actually a good thing! It meant that the IMA batt had finally charged up enough that the computer would allow the auto-stop feature to engage. The engine automatically started back up when I put it back in gear and lifted my foot off the brake. (I have a manual trans but the CVT version works the same.) After that, I had no issues with the 12v batteries dying. My IMA light is on because the battery is original and not in good health but it still functions decently. It provides assist when it should. The mileage is not what it could be but still better than the gasoline equivalent.
The moral of the story? If the high idle won't charge your IMA, you might want to try my method. You'd probably need to at least borrow one more 12v battery and bring it with you. Stay close to home and drive it till it dies then swap the batteries, head back home and recharge the first. Repeat until your IMA is charged enough to keep your 12v charged in the car. In my experience, driving and regenerative braking do a much better job of charging the battery than the high idle procedure.
For a full leveling charge that might help restore some of the IMA's health you would need a grid charger, but that's a whole other ball of wax.
S. Keith is an expert on these cars. He has helped me in the past and I trust everything he says. Just offering a potential solution from my experience that might be simpler than taking apart the car and looking for faults.
What you experienced was a version the "triple reset" I've referenced. In most cases, even when IMA light is on, there is a low current "background" charge (there are times where the thing just gives up). This can raise the IMA battery voltage and taps to the acceptable zone allowing DC-DC convereter operation.
The analogy would be to put a 10A charger on a 12V (to keep from killing it) and let the car idle for 10-15 minutes. Once complete, turn off, turn on and start. If the 12V light goes out in a few seconds, you got there. If not, disconnect 12V for 2 minutes, reconnect and repeat.
An IMA battery that is allowed to sit for extended periods where self-discharge occurs can experience improved function provided no cells are completely shorted.
Not at all an expert. i've just mucked around with these batteries a lot, and I've owned 5 honda Hybrids...
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