ima battery replacement
#41
09-21-2009, 10:52 AM
Re: ima battery replacement
while not all of the repairs have come out of my pocket, I am a little disappointed in the HCH
December 2008 - New Tires - $390
January 2009 - New Catalytic Converter / Serpentine Belt - $1400
February 2009 - Oil Change / Windshield wiper - $55
March 2009 - New Transmission - $3600
September 2009 - New Brakes / windshield repair - $350
so with the thought of a new battery in our future, we just never get a moment when we have two dimes to rub together to spoil this car.
fuel economy has dropped from 51 mpg down to 42 mpg in town stop and go driving. the battery is still charging, but with the IMA light and the Check Engine light, we can not get our annual DOT safety inspection sticker, that is coming due in November, so I will see if disconnecting the battery cables, reset the codes, rush to Mr. Sticker and pay my $40 for a sticker, if I can not do that, I will have to break down and get this auxiliary part fixed, but I sincerely think that it should have been a pre-150K warranty item.
December 2008 - New Tires - $390
January 2009 - New Catalytic Converter / Serpentine Belt - $1400
February 2009 - Oil Change / Windshield wiper - $55
March 2009 - New Transmission - $3600
September 2009 - New Brakes / windshield repair - $350
so with the thought of a new battery in our future, we just never get a moment when we have two dimes to rub together to spoil this car.
fuel economy has dropped from 51 mpg down to 42 mpg in town stop and go driving. the battery is still charging, but with the IMA light and the Check Engine light, we can not get our annual DOT safety inspection sticker, that is coming due in November, so I will see if disconnecting the battery cables, reset the codes, rush to Mr. Sticker and pay my $40 for a sticker, if I can not do that, I will have to break down and get this auxiliary part fixed, but I sincerely think that it should have been a pre-150K warranty item.
#42
09-21-2009, 06:52 PM
Re: ima battery replacement
Yes I see where your coming from! $2000 Will buy allot of gas! I think I would do the same, providing I can deal with the power loss, which probably is not that noticeable. You have been hit hard! Probably safer purchasing a Fit or Yaris. Less likely to have problems that you have been faced with. Good luck in the future, Hal
Hal
#44
09-22-2009, 09:09 AM
Re: ima battery replacement
Hi Hal, I just found that the battery box cooling fan is working last night, so I guess that was not the real problem with the 1449 code. Also found out the a replacement fan costs $200 at the dealer, so I am happy the fan is not broken. LOL
But I have been finding some odd things about how Honda expected to keep the cells cool though. There are these plastic air baffles in odd places inside the battery pack frame. You can't see them until the sticks are out. It was almost like Honda wanted some cells to overheat a little. I suspect this had something to do with evening out the flow of heat inside the pack frame. Like instead of increasing the air flow so everything stayed as cool as possible, Honda chose to slow the air down in certain spots so that those cells that might tend to stay cooler would get hotter to match the cells that could not stay cool easily. Very strange notion! Thus I am thinking on making a new cell supporting frame that would maximize air flow over all cells, instead of reusing the plastic frame Honda made. More fun for me! LOL
Hey Kat! If the IMA light is on, I suggest that you find out exactly what the code error is. 1449, 1447 and 1433 are all related to the battery pack doing something the computers don't like. Running on a damaged pack will eventually mess up the 12v battery, which runs the computers, and the car will simply stop running at some point, sometimes while driving on the highway, which is very bad! (I have read about this happening several times out here!) At the very least put the 12volt battery on a charger every night to keep it up. That way the computers can keep going (at least for a while) until you decide what you want to do with the car. Try hard not to drive at night too.
How old is your car anyway? How many miles on the pack? I ask because if you have a techie sort of person hangin around that likes messing with electrical things like I do then rebalancing the subpacks works wonders for IMA issues. The reconditionining charger is only about $100 and then you will need to take out the battery pack (which is NOT as hard as some of the people out here claim is it. I had mine out safely in about 30 minutes.) The time consuming part is spending many days letting the reconditioner/charger do it's thing to the subpack cells. But when it is done, wow, what a difference. Way cheaper than a new pack is too.
But I have been finding some odd things about how Honda expected to keep the cells cool though. There are these plastic air baffles in odd places inside the battery pack frame. You can't see them until the sticks are out. It was almost like Honda wanted some cells to overheat a little. I suspect this had something to do with evening out the flow of heat inside the pack frame. Like instead of increasing the air flow so everything stayed as cool as possible, Honda chose to slow the air down in certain spots so that those cells that might tend to stay cooler would get hotter to match the cells that could not stay cool easily. Very strange notion! Thus I am thinking on making a new cell supporting frame that would maximize air flow over all cells, instead of reusing the plastic frame Honda made. More fun for me! LOL
Hey Kat! If the IMA light is on, I suggest that you find out exactly what the code error is. 1449, 1447 and 1433 are all related to the battery pack doing something the computers don't like. Running on a damaged pack will eventually mess up the 12v battery, which runs the computers, and the car will simply stop running at some point, sometimes while driving on the highway, which is very bad! (I have read about this happening several times out here!) At the very least put the 12volt battery on a charger every night to keep it up. That way the computers can keep going (at least for a while) until you decide what you want to do with the car. Try hard not to drive at night too.
How old is your car anyway? How many miles on the pack? I ask because if you have a techie sort of person hangin around that likes messing with electrical things like I do then rebalancing the subpacks works wonders for IMA issues. The reconditionining charger is only about $100 and then you will need to take out the battery pack (which is NOT as hard as some of the people out here claim is it. I had mine out safely in about 30 minutes.) The time consuming part is spending many days letting the reconditioner/charger do it's thing to the subpack cells. But when it is done, wow, what a difference. Way cheaper than a new pack is too.
#45
09-22-2009, 09:25 AM
Re: ima battery replacement
Mike, maybe you should start up your own business? Sounds like you are getting into these packs pretty deep. You will have to be careful with this cooling thing as battery's work better warm? or at the correct temps. Hal
#46
09-22-2009, 09:41 AM
Re: ima battery replacement
Hi Hal,
That was the secondary thought I had when I bought this old car: Fix it and maybe be confident enough to fix other cars like it later (I have had two offers from HCH owners LOL) I found a guy in NYC who fixes packs and sponcers another hybrid site like this. I don't think I need a website though, don't want to work that hard!
So far though, the rebalancing is going good enough: 2 good sticks and 2 so-so ones so far, which I think I can get right with more time on the charger. This is also not that difficult to do, just very time consuming. So I also have another regular car for getting around in while I play with sticks. LOL
Hal, you must hang around here a lot huh? ;-) Do you have a hybrid? I also like that someone besides me reads this stuff.
That was the secondary thought I had when I bought this old car: Fix it and maybe be confident enough to fix other cars like it later (I have had two offers from HCH owners LOL) I found a guy in NYC who fixes packs and sponcers another hybrid site like this. I don't think I need a website though, don't want to work that hard!
So far though, the rebalancing is going good enough: 2 good sticks and 2 so-so ones so far, which I think I can get right with more time on the charger. This is also not that difficult to do, just very time consuming. So I also have another regular car for getting around in while I play with sticks. LOL
Hal, you must hang around here a lot huh? ;-) Do you have a hybrid? I also like that someone besides me reads this stuff.
Hal
#48
02-24-2010, 03:34 AM
Re: ima battery replacement
Hi Hal, I just found that the battery box cooling fan is working last night, so I guess that was not the real problem with the 1449 code. Also found out the a replacement fan costs $200 at the dealer, so I am happy the fan is not broken. LOL
But I have been finding some odd things about how Honda expected to keep the cells cool though. There are these plastic air baffles in odd places inside the battery pack frame. You can't see them until the sticks are out. It was almost like Honda wanted some cells to overheat a little. I suspect this had something to do with evening out the flow of heat inside the pack frame. Like instead of increasing the air flow so everything stayed as cool as possible, Honda chose to slow the air down in certain spots so that those cells that might tend to stay cooler would get hotter to match the cells that could not stay cool easily. Very strange notion! Thus I am thinking on making a new cell supporting frame that would maximize air flow over all cells, instead of reusing the plastic frame Honda made. More fun for me! LOL
Hey Kat! If the IMA light is on, I suggest that you find out exactly what the code error is. 1449, 1447 and 1433 are all related to the battery pack doing something the computers don't like. Running on a damaged pack will eventually mess up the 12v battery, which runs the computers, and the car will simply stop running at some point, sometimes while driving on the highway, which is very bad! (I have read about this happening several times out here!) At the very least put the 12volt battery on a charger every night to keep it up. That way the computers can keep going (at least for a while) until you decide what you want to do with the car. Try hard not to drive at night too.
How old is your car anyway? How many miles on the pack? I ask because if you have a techie sort of person hangin around that likes messing with electrical things like I do then rebalancing the subpacks works wonders for IMA issues. The reconditionining charger is only about $100 and then you will need to take out the battery pack (which is NOT as hard as some of the people out here claim is it. I had mine out safely in about 30 minutes.) The time consuming part is spending many days letting the reconditioner/charger do it's thing to the subpack cells. But when it is done, wow, what a difference. Way cheaper than a new pack is too.
But I have been finding some odd things about how Honda expected to keep the cells cool though. There are these plastic air baffles in odd places inside the battery pack frame. You can't see them until the sticks are out. It was almost like Honda wanted some cells to overheat a little. I suspect this had something to do with evening out the flow of heat inside the pack frame. Like instead of increasing the air flow so everything stayed as cool as possible, Honda chose to slow the air down in certain spots so that those cells that might tend to stay cooler would get hotter to match the cells that could not stay cool easily. Very strange notion! Thus I am thinking on making a new cell supporting frame that would maximize air flow over all cells, instead of reusing the plastic frame Honda made. More fun for me! LOL
Hey Kat! If the IMA light is on, I suggest that you find out exactly what the code error is. 1449, 1447 and 1433 are all related to the battery pack doing something the computers don't like. Running on a damaged pack will eventually mess up the 12v battery, which runs the computers, and the car will simply stop running at some point, sometimes while driving on the highway, which is very bad! (I have read about this happening several times out here!) At the very least put the 12volt battery on a charger every night to keep it up. That way the computers can keep going (at least for a while) until you decide what you want to do with the car. Try hard not to drive at night too.
How old is your car anyway? How many miles on the pack? I ask because if you have a techie sort of person hangin around that likes messing with electrical things like I do then rebalancing the subpacks works wonders for IMA issues. The reconditionining charger is only about $100 and then you will need to take out the battery pack (which is NOT as hard as some of the people out here claim is it. I had mine out safely in about 30 minutes.) The time consuming part is spending many days letting the reconditioner/charger do it's thing to the subpack cells. But when it is done, wow, what a difference. Way cheaper than a new pack is too.
I am an engineer and I have a Civic Hybrid 2003 and it has IMA issue with P1600 and P1449. I am planning to replace sub-packs. I need all your guidance and help in sourcing the reconditoner/charger as well as tools needed to un-assemble the sub-packs, balancing the sub-pack etc. Also, let me know how to find that the cooling fan is indeed working. I have already switched off the 12V battery and opened the back seat,switched off the hybrid battery and opened the cover. I do not see any colling fans. I see the big battery pack. Please help.
You can contact me on my email POSITIVE@COMCAST.NET. Thanks.
Last edited by rnmoorthy; 02-24-2010 at 03:37 AM.
#49
02-24-2010, 01:23 PM
Re: ima battery replacement
Hi
I would be happy to guide you a bit in reconditioning your civic pack. I think you will be pleased at the results afeter you are done. My recon'd pack acts like new again. No more check engine or IMA warning lights! :-)
As far as the cooling fan: It is located in the trunk behind the plastic right wheel well trunk cover, just below the trunk hindge. It probably works, but you can't really tell until the pack is working right.
Since the 12v battery is disconnect too, if it is more than 4 years old replace it now. You do not need to go to Honda for a 12v battery either. Any 12v auto batt that will fit in the battery tray will work fine. I replaced my original 12v mini battery with one from Walmart for $50. It did involve cutting out some of the plastic crap Honda has around the 12v battery area, but now the new batt should last **** near forever since it has a much great ampacity than Honda spec'd.
Take photos to remember where everything goes first! Each step can have many many bolts, wires and other fasteners. I have done this twice now and it is still something trying to remember where all the bits go after a month or so of reconditioning! I hope you also has a second car to use. This is NOT a fast thing to do! Park your honda someplace out of the way since that is where it will be sitting for many weeks as you work over the pack.
For now though, finish removing the metal battery box cover (a few #30 torx bolts, they are VERY tight!) there is also a plastic pin next to the circuit breaker you need to break off to remove the cover. The CBreaker should be off too.
Once inside the box, disconnect the 5 sensor wire connectors from the battery pack. Look around carefully for all the wire connections that will get in the way of removing the pack. Carefully bend the wires out of the way.
Remove the four 12mm bolts that hold the battery pack in the box (two top of pack two at the bottom)
Get a pal to help you lift the pack out of the battery box and into your house. The pack weighs about 50 pounds, be careful! Do not break any of the plastic parts on it!
Once you have the pack in your house let me know and I will offer additional steps for disassembly so you can work over each stick.
Good luck and work safe! Where are you located?
Mike
I would be happy to guide you a bit in reconditioning your civic pack. I think you will be pleased at the results afeter you are done. My recon'd pack acts like new again. No more check engine or IMA warning lights! :-)
As far as the cooling fan: It is located in the trunk behind the plastic right wheel well trunk cover, just below the trunk hindge. It probably works, but you can't really tell until the pack is working right.
Since the 12v battery is disconnect too, if it is more than 4 years old replace it now. You do not need to go to Honda for a 12v battery either. Any 12v auto batt that will fit in the battery tray will work fine. I replaced my original 12v mini battery with one from Walmart for $50. It did involve cutting out some of the plastic crap Honda has around the 12v battery area, but now the new batt should last **** near forever since it has a much great ampacity than Honda spec'd.
Take photos to remember where everything goes first! Each step can have many many bolts, wires and other fasteners. I have done this twice now and it is still something trying to remember where all the bits go after a month or so of reconditioning! I hope you also has a second car to use. This is NOT a fast thing to do! Park your honda someplace out of the way since that is where it will be sitting for many weeks as you work over the pack.
For now though, finish removing the metal battery box cover (a few #30 torx bolts, they are VERY tight!) there is also a plastic pin next to the circuit breaker you need to break off to remove the cover. The CBreaker should be off too.
Once inside the box, disconnect the 5 sensor wire connectors from the battery pack. Look around carefully for all the wire connections that will get in the way of removing the pack. Carefully bend the wires out of the way.
Remove the four 12mm bolts that hold the battery pack in the box (two top of pack two at the bottom)
Get a pal to help you lift the pack out of the battery box and into your house. The pack weighs about 50 pounds, be careful! Do not break any of the plastic parts on it!
Once you have the pack in your house let me know and I will offer additional steps for disassembly so you can work over each stick.
Good luck and work safe! Where are you located?
Mike
#50
02-24-2010, 02:00 PM
Re: ima battery replacement
Thanks Mike.
I am located Fairless Hills, PA 19030.
I have already taken the battery out. I made multiple trips to Auto Zone to get extenders to my 10mm socket. 2 of the 10mm nuts that was holding the battery back was very deep and I needed a real long extender.
I did not break the black clip. I used a flat screw driver to pull it out. I can put it back when I replace the metal cover.
Now I need to know the tools required to open the battery pack and name of the charger that is required to test and recondition the sub packs. I also noticed that sub-packs are available on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
Should I buy a few?
Thanks again for your quick response.
- Raja
I am located Fairless Hills, PA 19030.
I have already taken the battery out. I made multiple trips to Auto Zone to get extenders to my 10mm socket. 2 of the 10mm nuts that was holding the battery back was very deep and I needed a real long extender.
I did not break the black clip. I used a flat screw driver to pull it out. I can put it back when I replace the metal cover.
Now I need to know the tools required to open the battery pack and name of the charger that is required to test and recondition the sub packs. I also noticed that sub-packs are available on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
Should I buy a few?
Thanks again for your quick response.
- Raja
