Yes. There is a lot of folks that have an issue with ima fan that run continualy after grid charge with maxxvolt cause it could blew something in the bcm. So I disconect it every time now.

 

Understood. It's just critical that the IPU cover is installed during grid charging or cooling is disabled. There have been a few cooked batteries that way.

 

Yess, I always replace the cover to drive or grid charge.

Here B2 connector value :

B6 B14 16.40v
B14 B5 16.56v
B5 B13 16.43v
B13 B4 15.43v
B4 B12 14.87v
B12 B11 15.88v
B7 B1 14.46v
B1 B8 14.78v
B8 B2 15.56v
B2 B9 14.97v
B9 B3 14.77v

 

I don't understand what you're saying. The IPU cover must be secured in place when grid charging and when driving or any other time when battery cooling is needed.

Those voltages should all be within about 0.1V for a healthy battery and about 0.2V for an okay battery.

That battery has failed horribly.

 

Sorry, I'm french, I make my best to be clear.

https://www.dtcdecode.com/Honda/P1446-74 Is that the specs it should be before coding? So 1.2v or less is ok, but moore then 1.2v made the actual code?

I wanna have some good point before returning to the shop.

So, I should try to grid charge to balance and the code should go away.

Is the normal that the battery is discharging by it self?

 

Your battery has failed. If they charged you money and offered a warranty, they should replace it. Only the first three are likely any good because they are the highest, and they are all within 0.2V of each other. The other 8 have one or more failed cells.

I can't emphasize enough that this battery is HORRIBLE. I mean it's truly a piece of ****. Those numbers indicate the shop likely has no idea what they're doing.

You tell them that your voltages measure those value, and they shouldn't argue at all.

Do not grid charge your battery again. They could use that to deny warranty.

 

Have you a Honda source where I can see these max specs of 0.2 volts? I Wanna get some argument before returning to the shop.

So, it is not normal that the battery is losing its charge when out of the car?

The shop is telling me that this is caused by my car, that it do not regenerate properly, that there is a bad wiring or something else that cause this, it's the second battery they give me that do the same thing and they said they put my old battery in another customer and everything is working fine, but I can not confirm that...

At the beginning, the battery work really well, lots of power, makes low speed cruise on IMA, autostop working etc... They make me think that the car is ok.

thank a lot for your help!

 

0.2V is a guideline based on more than a decade of working with hybrid batteries.

In all likelihood, they are lying through their teeth. There is no way the car can only drain from some of the subpacks and not the others. They are almost certainly lying about your other pack.

To prove it to yourself, or prove me wrong, grid charge the battery for 31 hours (IIRC, the MV charger is about 260mA. If different, charge for 8250/charger mAh hours). This will guarantee that all 11 subpacks are charged to true 100%. Prior to terminating grid charge, record all tap voltages. Terminate charge. Remove the pack from the car and take voltage readings after grid charge: 30 minutes, 60 minutes, 6 hours, 12 hours and every 24 hours thereafter.

 

I've already made a similar test, but only by 24 hour. here the reading :

 

If you grid charged for 30+ hours, and those are the resting voltages with the pack disconnected from the car, that pack is complete and total ****.