More modern vehicles that come with projectors(***), even with halogen bulbs, have an integral/internal shading "frame" to block, SHARPLY block, the high edge of the low beam pattern. Upgrading these to HID represents no problem to/for oncoming drivers.

It is the older "open" beam forming reflector assemblies that create a problem for oncoming drivers when upgraded to HID.

The projector head light lens was developed in order to get a more tightly focused HALOGEN bulb forward pattern. But that tight focusing of the standard halogen bulb's output resulted in the same problem as with HID bulbs, too much UPWARDS focused light. Solution, add the upper shading "frame".

*** Mostly, if not all, two bulb high/low systems.

 

Quote from wwest:
This allows for using the stock wiring to power the HIDs. The kit (from Retro Solutions) came with everything needed. The Ballasts are small, and appear to be built well. The only thing that I didn't like was that I thought the "Plug and Play" kit would use an H11 socket to power the Ballasts, instead they use two pins (with rubber boots). You stick the pins into the existing H11 socket. It works just fine, but I would rather have some type of locking system to hold them in. Electrical tape looks tacky.

Hi Williard (wwest),

Don't know why your kit didn't include the male connector for the pins to fit into, but mine had everything and I didn't need to tape it up. It was completely "plug and play". It comes with an extra pigtail set w/pins, but you're not supposed to use this unless you're installing a dual (hi & low) set of HIDs (I think that's what it's for).

I had an extra pigtail set w/a capacitor added (to help with the "auto" setting). This had two loose pins. The pins did not come installed into the connector. The ballasts are not polarity sensitive, but the capacitors are, so I had to check which wire from the OEM lamp plug was positive and which was negative. Had to make sure that I installed the pins into the male connector housing (provided) to match the OEM female connector's polarity.

If you don't need the capacitor mod. (no "auto" setting or you decided not use to use that setting) then you can plug the original wiring, OEM female lamp connector directly into the ballast. The other areas have their own connectors (new HID lamp and wire for that lamp from the ballast). The extra pigtail set stays unconnected and is just tie wrapped with the rest of the HID wires.

Retro-solution's kit is completely "plug and play" or I would not have bought it. Did the research and asked all the questions, but you can confirm with Todd Strong again to be assured. He is willing to answer any question from you all.